Gully

If buying a used AC Delco glass-top pump, just be wary of the condition of the two valves. Changing / replacing them is not straightforward, unless you luck into one of the few with the screw in retention plate. Gully

Just a thought. When you make the same adjustment to the LHS side of the car, lowering that side down by an equivalent amount should also reduce the apparent positive camber on the RHS? Assuming you're measuring only the wheel against the vertical? Gully

Or simply pull on the handbrake when driving to see if the vibration is there and of a similar frequency. Gully

The push looks very much like the one supplied with my Motolita boss. The boss should have a hole through it to allow the sprung-loaded connector to contact the slip ring described by NM above. Motolita actually supplied 2 with my boss. The wire from this connects to the horn push. The other contact is the spring you can see which holds the push unit in place and contacts the boss. When you press the horn, the slip ring is connected to the column via the boss (and column earths) to complete the circuit. Gully

Likewise! Gully

Would it make that much difference? There are already 4 flexy hoses connecting the brake lines to the calipers and slave cylinders? Gully

Correct. Gully

According to the Courier mag, the Club Shop is still posting to Europe - last time I looked they supplied Penrite and Castrol Classic. Gully

I've always run NGK BP6ES in my GT6. Not tried the multi-electrode plugs yet. I did try Champion N9Y, but found the car didn't enjoy running on choke with them. Gully

Fair enough - was looking for a solution to an odd problem, but looks like the issue should be solved using the smaller Canley nut, with the problem being caused by the original nut (and washer) being oversize. The Spalding site does recommend talking to them about performance requirements and specifications before ordering, which is sound advice and a good service. Gully

They do thin form nuts which may be appropriate. Gully

The other clanger to avoid is positioning your door mirror so you can't fully open the quarterlight! I must sit taller than the PO who fitted them and the additional tilt back on the mirror means the driver's quarterlight fouls it. Passenger side is mounted in dimensionally the same position on the door, but the quarterlight clears it. Gully

Before I changed to CV shafts on my GT6 I bought a spare nyloc just in case I needed it after a job I was planning to do. It came from either Canley or Paddocks and was a much deeper nut than the original. If I'd used it, I don't believe the nylon section would have engaged with the thread sufficiently to lock it, which sounds as if it could be the issue you are encountering. My CV shafts with the original bearing design use a shaped nut that is peened into a channel to achieve locking. Gully

I have one of those too - bought via Chic Doig's eBay shop around 5 years ago. Gully

The specs look right to me, including the viscosity. Gully

Given that the Spitfire in the same sale went for £19k plus premium, I'm not sure that's true! 😄 Gully

Welcome back! Fingers crossed a few shows happen this year - seems there's an awful lot cancelled already. Gully

Nothing like consistency! 😄 I'm intrigued by the reversal in pressures for the last models - have you ever tried the hard front, softer rear on your '73? Mine's a '70/'71 Mk 3, so even the WSM and owner's manual (extract below) don't align... Really is a case of going by feel! Gully

My GT6 made its way down to Hampshire last week for it's Spring holiday - we've some building work starting at home this week, so needed the Triumph out of the way. It's now residing in my parents' garage. Had a good run down via the A505, M1, M25 and M3, before hopping off the motorway to cut down to Odiham, Alton and then through the Meon Valley to the coast. Around 120 miles and just under half a tank of fuel. I'll be visiting once a month until the building works are complete and the GT6 can return home! Gully

Welcome to the forum. Great looking car - but them I'm biased... Gully

Really?! That's interesting, as my orange owners manual for the Mk 3 GT6 says pre-1973 (ie. Rotaflex) 24 front, 28 rear, but 1973- (swing spring) 30 front and 26 rear. All based on 155/80 tyres. With modern tyres (I run 175/70 R13 on 5 inch rims) I set the pressures on my 1970 GT6 at 27 front, 30 rear - if I go as low as 24 on the front the sidewall 'slop' is really noticeable. Gully

I put copper slip on the shims and them coated with Dynax 50 wax when in situ. Gully

Best price seems to be around £52.99 with free postage. Gully

Presumably the R in the BUR6ET reference means they are resistive plugs? Is there a non-resistive version, as I've always avoided the suppression / resistive NGKs for my GT6 based on advice from this forum (and elsewhere)? Thanks, Gully

I changed one on my GT6 a couple of years ago and found it pretty straightforward. I didn't like the idea of jacking under the sump, so jacked a block of wood positioned along the front flange area of the sump to take the weight. I then removed the two bolts holding the mount to the turret and the 4 bolts holding the plate to the engine and removed the unit complete. I then loosely reassembled the engine mounting plate with the new engine mount and reversed the process. From recollection, I used a pry bar to gently shift the engine a little (opening the V) to ensure all the bolts aligned to start them off. Gully