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Darren Groves

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Normally I bleed my brakes using the traditional 2 man method, but thought I'd get a Gunson Eezibleed kit for convenience. Got an airtight seal everywhere at the recommended 15psi, but when I opened a bleed nipple it pushed a small amount through and then just stopped, that's in all 4 corners. It should work at a lower PSI than I used, so wondered if anyone has had a similar experience? Does this indicate a MC fault? Or does it just not work as intended on some MC's?....



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I used to use an ezibleed years ago and it worked a treat - bought one (as the one I had has disappeared- but was probably 30years old anyway) and not used it yet because it didn’t come with a top to fit the spitfire. 

So I did the usual 2 man bleed and that worked. 

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Easy to make a valved bleed tube , plug the end and slit witha sharp knife about 25mm 

The tube opens the slit with down strokes and closes on the return

Its always best to keep the bleed bottle up high , not on the floor  all bubbles then rise and the nipple threads are under a head of fluid

 And not syphoning in air  as the tube tries to drain.

If you talk to many brake manufacturers unless you have a vacuumed evacuate and fill facility then dump all the gadgets and 

Use your foot,  down quick   back slower  ,   

Ive got a ford electric pump but its just extra hassle ,  so foot and jar works ,  with a wet cloth under the m cyl to arrest any sloppy filling .


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Used one in the past. Getting a seal on the large metal cap master cylinder was difficult. Getting a seal on the small plastic caps was less of a problem.

I prefer to use the two person method and avoid all the fuss setting up the Eezibleed. I guess it's personal choice.

Bleed tube with a one way valve are useful, but be careful no air leaks back via the threads of the bleed nipple. Don't undo to much.  


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6 hours ago, Mjit said:

I think I must have tried every form one one-man bleeder out there, including Eezibleed and those suction ones and the only one I can get to work well each and every time is the Vizibleed type...

Ditto to that, my Eezibleed exploded and blew fluid everywhere so out it went, and the vacuum / air operated bleeder was a waste of time other than to start the refilling process on new brake pipes - best is the plastic pipe with either a valve, or as Pete says, a small slit cut in the side near one end.

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Used Eezibleed  many times. Always found it to be very straightforward to use.The cap /  master cylinder seal has the potential for trouble, I agree.

 I really can’t explain why it hasn’t worked for you,Darren.The obvious points such as  having enough pressure and opening the bleed valves sufficiently, I am  sure you have addressed , and  Pete’s explanation seemed very sound.

The only thing I do different is I adapted mine to connect to  a compressor ( on low pressure, of course! )  rather than from a  tyre valve -  but that was simply for convenience.

The best thing  I ever found for bleeding brakes as a one person job very quickly and easily was to replace the standard bleed valves with “ ABV”   valves (presumably for automatic bleed valves).They were  neat spring loaded one way   bleed  valves .You could get them for most vehicles .You just undid  the valve a half to one turn a half turn , pumped the pedal  a few times , tightened it up, next wheel and so on.The only need for a tube and jar was to catch the fluid to avoid making a mess.

I haven’t seen them anywhere for years...

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7 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I've got a set.... never out of the box, am saving them for the right vehicle... :)

I've seen the modern equivalent on some American car forums, but I've no idea if they're available for Imperial threads.



That’s them  , Colin!

- from Cleckheaton   by gum,

They  are (or were ) brilliant.

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And once you've got silicone, good by jam jar.

Not my experience.

Once you've got silicone expect the drive shafts/cylinder seals/some other job that involves having to 'open' part of the break curcit to go wrong.

For similar reasons's I'll never go for waterless coolent.  I know if I did some radiator-out job would crop up two weeks later!

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