avivalasvegas Posted February 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 Not exactly bolt on then I'm not a very aggressive driver, and don't expect much brake fade or much wear. And because I don't drive more than 2-3K miles a year, rust prevention is a priority. I believe the science is that dimples/ slots aide in cooling while preserving disc integrity. That said, I think it's all marketing mumbo jumbo. I'll share how they perform when they go on car next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 25, 2021 Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 Just now, avivalasvegas said: Not exactly bolt on then I'm not a very aggressive driver, and don't expect much brake fade or much wear. And because I don't drive more than 2-3K miles a year, rust prevention is a priority. I believe the science is that dimples/ slots aide in cooling while preserving disc integrity. That said, I think it's all marketing mumbo jumbo. I'll share how they perform when they go on car next week. The RallyDesign ones appear to be a straight fit. They used to say back in the day's advertising blurb that the dimples helped remove gases from between the pads and the discs and so aid braking; I remember the return argument being: if there's a dimple there's less disc for the pad to grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted March 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2021 Just got the car back. My impressions on the koni shocks and brakes are below. The blown fuse was caused by an electrical fault that was due to extra gauge wiring installed by a previous owner. Also, the bonnet rattle that has long plagued the car is now entirely gone. The car seems so much more refined and quieter than before, and continues to improve. That said, two new problems have arisen: 1) Interestingly, after some adjustment to the choke to improve cold starting, the car now shudders when idling and occasionally dies. It is by no means a pleasant cold start. 2) Sadly, the headlight stalk appears to be misbehaving. It doesn't activate high beam or low beam easily anymore but sometimes both come on and sometimes all illumination is turned off entirely. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted April 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 In his infinite wisdom, the previous owner (headmaster Barry) had installed low back recliner seats with adjustable headrests from a Mk3 when he restored this Mk2 GT6. The foams have since perished but the leather covers themselves are still good. To get things as firm and supportive as new, I've since ordered replacement foams from Park Lane Classics as they were £150 cheaper than everyone else, including Newton. I also liked that Owen took the time to review images of my seats to confirm that I was ordering the correct ones. Sadly, I have to wait till the Summer to get them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 and replace the hog rings with cable (tyraps) ties hog rings ..they are nasty little sods to cut and remove always photo every fold and clip so you can replace the foams and get the covers to fit , ti aid dragging covers over new foams use a liner of old net curtain you can use bin bag stuff but that can be creaky when you shuffle the bum just aids the heart attack getting the covers pulled on fully. any wrinkles stick a wallpaper steamer wand up inside , not so effective on leather Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 58 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: and replace the hog rings with cable (tyraps) ties hog rings ..they are nasty little sods to cut and remove always photo every fold and clip so you can replace the foams and get the covers to fit , ti aid dragging covers over new foams use a liner of old net curtain you can use bin bag stuff but that can be creaky when you shuffle the bum just aids the heart attack getting the covers pulled on fully. any wrinkles stick a wallpaper steamer wand up inside , not so effective on leather Pete Aviv, Pete mentions hog rings. If you need some, I've got hog ring pliers and spare hog rings that you're welcome to use. Alternatively, some use small zip ties in place of traditional hog rings. Seems like a good idea to me, having had experience of using hog rings! Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted April 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 Many thanks! Owen includes a bunch of mounting hardware (zip ties I believe) with his kit. Once it arrives, I’ll be sure to share more. For now though, can’t wait for a more comfortable ride! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 You will not regret getting Owen's stuff. Take care not to bang your head on the roof when you have done the job. I was amazed how different the driving position was after I had fitted mine and was not sitting on the floor. I believe Doug had to increase the rake on his seats after fitting his foams? Not so bad in a soft top. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 21 minutes ago, Badwolf said: Doug had to increase the rake on his seats after fitting his foams? Yes! I was previously sitting on frame and webbing, the old foams had crumbled to cat litter. I got my new foams from Owen, well worth the wait, but they raised the sitting position by near 3". My covers, although grubby and smelling of engine oil and exhaust fumes (car exhaust, OK? ) were not in too bad a condition. I put them through the washing machine and they came out surprisingly well, but I wouldn't recommend that for leather. Although my daughter has just put a sheepskin rug though her machine and it's come out fine. A couple of years later I got new covers, again from Owen, excellent quality and a very good price. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 I think that Owen has the largest following on this forum of any small independent merchant. It is good to see that it can still be done these days. I really must get around to ordering the rest of my interior trim. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 20 hours ago, Badwolf said: I really must get around to ordering the rest of my interior trim. Yes! Door cards for me, he does them in the right colour too. In fact I'll get on that today. Spend! Spend! Spend, to save the economy. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Doug - Get on to martrim.co.uk and search for chestnut leather.. £167.50 each. Then send on to Owen to make up for you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted April 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 I suppose I was subconsciously drawn to support an independent guy in his garage over a larger business. That his foam is rated higher (and firmer) and costs less than anything else out there sealed the deal for me! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted April 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 The GT6 is back. The following have been installed 1) Koni rear suspension kit - Low speed ride is much better but at higher speeds the rear is a bit bouncy. Has anyone experienced this? 2) New Girling clutch master and slave - The failed master cylinder was also a Girling but the slave was aftermarket. Both were leaking. 3) New Transmission oil - Dale uses Smith & Allen. He shared that the old fluid "looked like Christmas lights", which means loads of metal bits in it. Is this normal for a GT6? Anything I can do to minimize it - eg. an overdrive friendly additive. 4) New differential oil - The old fluid had turned black'ish. I plan to add Liqui Moly MOS2 differential additive to it to reduce friction wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 9 hours ago, avivalasvegas said: 3) New Transmission oil - Dale uses Smith & Allen. He shared that the old fluid "looked like Christmas lights", which means loads of metal bits in it. Is this normal for a GT6? Anything I can do to minimize it - eg. an overdrive friendly additive. 4) New differential oil - The old fluid had turned black'ish. I plan to add Liqui Moly MOS2 differential additive to it to reduce friction wear. You'll get some metal particles in the gearbox oil but it shouldn't be excessive; after all it has to come off somewhere inside. It may be that it just has not been maintained in a long while, but try a magnetic drain plug and watch what sticks to it - but only after a few oil changes to flush out the old particles. Then you'll know if anything is still being ground off. As for additives... I was always told to avoid any kind of additive on overdrives, certainly any of the slippery versions that will wreck it - maybe someone here can advise if anything is overdrive safe if needed? Same for the diff - good oil is adequate. Paddocks sell a 140 grade which sadly they won't post to me but I always wanted to try it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 The metal bits all tend to sit in the bottom of the box, and indeed, it should have a magnetic drain plug which comes out covered in a thick layer of tiny steel particles. All quite normal, as hardly anybody changes the oil in a gearbox or diff. Dale has PLENTY of experience over the years of prepping cars for all sorts of events, so I would be happy with his choice of oil. But do not use additives, they are not needed or desirable. As to the Konis, they are adjustable, and therein lies a problem. Setting them to suit an individual. They may be set too soft for your driving, and need adjusting. Which is a bit of a faff with Koni as they need to be undone at one end or maybe taken off the car. Not difficult though. And don't be tempted to make the over-hard, maybe up a couple of clicks. But too soft is very preferable to too hard, especially at the rear 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 I have Gaz rear shockers on my Vitesse and they are set on 2 . Scale is 1 to 10 . They were initially set to 4 then saw my 10 year old grand daughter bouncing about in the rear seat 😱 Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted April 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: As for additives... I was always told to avoid any kind of additive on overdrives, certainly any of the slippery versions that will wreck it - maybe someone here can advise if anything is overdrive safe if needed? Same for the diff - good oil is adequate. Paddocks sell a 140 grade which sadly they won't post to me but I always wanted to try it. Dale shared this as well for overdrive transmissions. He also shared that the previous owner was very wise to swap from the D type overdrive to the J type. He was not opposed to using this MOS2 additive in the rear differential. I have used this on other cars with great success & will try it next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 never any addatives to improve slip unless you want a slipping OD clutch the OD basic spec is to use engine oil as other marques do the problem is the gearbox wont last well and triumph had agreement with laycock to use EP90 ive had a good few Dtypes never a problem the only one to play up was when i bought the 2000 with a J type and the solenoid shuttle was stuffed so the OD had a mind of it own with In /out all by its self cheap to fix but out of 4 Dtypes and 1 J type its the J that needed attention the J is of a better design and handles more torque than the D but they all do a good job Both OD have a coarse filter and magnetic rings to collect fine debris but doesnt mean the particles are from the OD as the oil capacity is fully shared so more likely it cam from clashing gears pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: the OD basic spec is to use engine oil as other marques do the problem is the gearbox wont last well and triumph had agreement with laycock to use EP90 So: EP90 in the gearbox and engine oil in the overdrive. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 Colin intrigued ........... so how would you keep them apart ???? Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 26 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: Colin intrigued ........... so how would you keep them apart ???? Pete Court order? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 40 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: Colin intrigued ........... so how would you keep them apart ???? Pete The correct pro nouns? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 MG boxes seem to last OK on engine oil. There is a local member who runs engine oil in his single rail Spitfire box. Seems to have been alright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 25, 2021 Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 others that do spec engine oil dont have the same life expectance layshaft and tip bearings and tooth profiles dating from way back in time we all know the weak points why chance a non EP oil sure an engine oil will clear from the sychro quicker than an EP oil but they and the rest of the box is built around using an extreme pressure oil due to inherant short comings they even spec'd ep90 in the standard 8 where some of this began life back in the 50s i dont see the need to mess with base oil specs . whats the gain ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now