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Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!


AidanT

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Thanks Rob,

Being new to this and an accountant I like to get the  best bang for my buck. That being said I don't want to do  it 3 times ! And want to have a reliable engine at the end

I wasn't keen on spending 2750 on an Ivor Searle, but happy to spend when I need to and when things are beyond my skill set

Aidan

 

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14 minutes ago, AidanT said:

That being said I don't want to do  it 3 times ! And want to have a reliable engine at the end

Over the years I've rebuilt engines for my Spitfire (well, it was in a Herald at the time but is now in the Spitfire), GT6, 2500S and Vitesse. Only the Vitesse one went to a machine shop (Ivor Searle, as it happens), because the block was cracked and I bought a spare, but the old block had been rebored before so my pistons were +20. A rebore was cheaper than a set of pistons.

None of those engines have given any trouble and two of them are still going 25+ years later.

Edit: to be clear, of the other two, one was only done five years ago, the other I no longer own, and may still be going for all I know.

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I think I'm going to strip it completely. Then I will take a load of pics put them o  here and get a vote on machine or not. There's obviously lots of experience on here with different views but maybe good pictures will sway it one way or another.

Back to my measuring stuff, grateful for diagrams as I get a little lost with some item names

Thx

Aidan

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To measure the bores you will need a bore gauge, they range from £30 (probably crap) to say a Mitutoyo (definitely good) for over £300! I took the decision to get the machine shop to check mine as to buy a gauge for me wasn't worth it. Plus you need to interpret the results etc...

Iain

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  • AidanT changed the title to Engine Rebuild by a novice!
14 minutes ago, AidanT said:

Is there anything I can do with a standard micrometer gauge?

I thought of the bore diameter but maybe not

No worries if not. 

Aidan

Depending on what size your mic is, you can measure the crank journals and compare with the factory figure, assuming it's not had a regrind.  You can't measure bore with it.  As Iain has said, you need an at least half-decent bore mic for that, so if you're only doing the one engine it's hard to justify the expense.  If you're taking it to a machine shop, you would rely on their measurements anyway so there's not much point in buying your own.

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5 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Pretty sure that's the one I have, I think.  DRO are good, I buy a lot from them.  M&W used to be a top-notch British maker, but I doubt they're made here any more.  There's a lot of good quality older kit on ebay, but any kind of mic, even the top quality ones, would need a calibration check if they're getting long in the tooth.

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5 minutes ago, Roger K said:

but any kind of mic, even the top quality ones, would need a calibration check if they're getting long in the tooth.

Totally agree, any precision measuring tool should be calibrated at 20C temp with the correct setting blocks. In fact all parts should be measured at 20C but then the world's not perfect! 

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42 minutes ago, Iain T said:

When wife no.1 (I've only had two) started having baby contractions I was under my TR3A scraping gunk off the chassis. I was covered in dirt and muck, my first thought was bloody good timing! 

Funny how you remember these things... 

Iain 

Ha - when my only daughter was born in ‘90, I visited again the next day and came out of the Rosie (Cambridge) to find my GT6 had been broken into. They got a few cassettes (yes, that long ago), but nothing else. The real pain was that they’d smashed a rear quarterlight thinking they could reach the lock and, when they couldn’t, smashed the side window as well. Took me ages to find the Sundym glass for both. 

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2 hours ago, Roger K said:

Ha - when my only daughter was born in ‘90, I visited again the next day and came out of the Rosie (Cambridge) to find my GT6 had been broken into. They got a few cassettes (yes, that long ago), but nothing else. The real pain was that they’d smashed a rear quarterlight thinking they could reach the lock and, when they couldn’t, smashed the side window as well. Took me ages to find the Sundym glass for both. 

My next door neighbour, back in the 70`s had his MG roof slashed for a couple of  "8" cassettes. The thing was, he left his door unlocked anyway?. So the # of brain cells in thieving scrotes has not increased over time!.

😖

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3 hours ago, Iain T said:

When wife no.1 (I've only had two) started having baby contractions I was under my TR3A scraping gunk off the chassis. I was covered in dirt and muck, my first thought was bloody good timing! 

There I was thinking: don't tell me he ran for the bore measuring tool....

  • Haha 2
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10 hours ago, AidanT said:

Thanks- I will add it to the shopping list

Full gasket set, New oil pump, new studs bolts and washers for head.

Anything else????

It I should worth blue-printing the oil pump, or buying one that has been done for you.

quality and tolerances of new ones can be variable

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13 hours ago, thescrapman said:

It I should worth blue-printing the oil pump, or buying one that has been done for you.

quality and tolerances of new ones can be variable

Aidan - a good description of Triumph oil pump "blue-printing" can be found here;

Oil Pump (danielsonfamily.org)

The only engineering tool required is a set of feeler gauges, plus the wet&dry paper/flat surface. The correct pump clearances are in the workshop manual.

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to save any damage remover all top studs  , doesnt matter where they refit to unless there is any different lengths involved 

if there is no   ring wear ridge near the top its the preference of 

just re ring the orig pistons as the bores look ok but need a glaze buster 

or utopia  get her bored and fit buy new oversiize pistons and new rings 

this is all down to personal preference     how many miles expectation   and costs 

me i would re ring what you have , it looks as a cursory glance to be ok to bring up the heap without 

costing a fortune  

what do you want from all this .are you looking for this to run another 100k  ????

or be a nice easy runner as a  spare ,  i thought the idea was to gain some experience of engines 

not remanufacture one  ????
Pete

 

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Your spot on Pete, but this will go into the car, as the current mk2 saloon engine is tired.  I also want to clean up the engine bay while the engines are swapped. How would I know what size rings to get??  

Or maybe just a hone and new rings?? &  Polish the crank as a middle ground.

End point is a reliable runner and the experience! 

I will whip put the head studs

Thanks

Aidan

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