Pete Lewis Posted October 25, 2021 Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 many disc wobbles are down to wear caused by the hub having a runout so the pads wear an unequal disc thickness and then you get vibration nodding dog thruppeny bit discs fit new discs and in 5k its back and avoid steaming hot discs in a polish pressure carwash rapid cooling doesnt help Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted October 25, 2021 Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 I remember taking you to HQ in my modern, 5 mins in you said "Are you going to change those discs then?" Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 Just a quick aside, if I may. In high-end motorsport, nearly everything is a consumable item. The mechanics are taught that if they think it's not up to scratch, then change the part. For a lot of people, the thought of drilled discs is not very favourable, in all honesty. The tight radii in lightening pockets/holes 'can' cause unequal heat expansion, enough to fail the mechanical properties of the disc. Motor bikes can & do use lightened discs. After all, they are on open view and subject to inspection & scrutiny. Not so when the disc is tucked inside a wheel arch. With grabbing disc brakes, it can be any number of factors, and luckily mostly solvable. The steel backing portion of a disc pad is normally a stamping, and as such, 'might' have rough edges where the backing goes through the drop stamp. I use a good-quality file to 'clean up' the edges of the steel portion. I also check the quality of the fit vis-a-vis between pad carrier & its caliper proper. I never, ever, interfere with the braking surface of the pad; ever. Some do, but it's not for me. Right, sermon over.... Early brake calipers sometimes used a single piston to work a disc, and relied on dragging the other side of the pad into contact with the disc. After a while, the unequal heating 'can' set up dimensional differences within the disc: A bit like having a wheel out of balance. That said, if one caliper is doing all the work, then you'll have a set of unequally worn brake pads. If any of the other brake components, such as caliper pins, etc, are 'sus', then bin them, and get new parts. If you want to keep a disc cool, arrange an airflow such that it's directed at the part concerned. I hope I haven't upset anyone.... Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 On 25/10/2021 at 16:01, dougbgt6 said: remember taking you to HQ in my modern, 5 mins in you said " so your memory is not as bad as we thought ha ! and the vibration solved all my back ache ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 Last night I emailed East Berks with a meeting reminder: "I have an email from the Shire Horse, apparently I've a table booked for tomorrow night, Tuesday 9th. Anybody know why I did this?" 3 of them mailed back, confused. I had to send another email "Sorry for my last which has caused some confusion. I can confirm that tomorrow it is 2nd Tuesday, Club night! There will be beer, food, sparkling conversation and dancing girls! Well, probably not the last two." So I'm not the one with befuddled brains! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 7 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: Last night I emailed East Berks with a meeting reminder: I thought you had the memory of an elephant it's the rest of us, well some anyway, who struggle with what day it is! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 Ian Smith, "Early brake calipers sometimes used a single piston to work a disc" On a Triumph? Surely not! Sliding calipers are commonly used on moderns, especially for rear wheels and parking brakes. They grip the disc equally, if properly adjusted, and don't cause problems. I have them as my rear brakes on the race Vitesse, transplanted from the MGF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 1 hour ago, JohnD said: I have them as my rear brakes on the race Vitesse, transplanted from the MGF. Hello John, I didn't mention Triumph, did I? Oops! Forgive my laxity, it's been a long couple of days...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 4 hours ago, JohnD said: They grip the disc equally, if properly adjusted, and don't cause problems Middle comment is key! I may have said before - quite possible as I have a memory of a nat - my current modern rear discs are going to need to be replaced soon. Probably at the next service which is due. Pads **I Think** are fine from a quick look look through the wheel spokes. The reason for the replacement is due to vibration (Its more of a noise rather than a physical feeling) caused I think by the active cruise control which mostly (Only?) uses the rear brakes to slow when needed. I've thought about doing them myself - I used to do my Land Rover ones - but you need the diagnostics tool to set them up again. And I haven't got one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 10, 2021 Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 21 hours ago, Anglefire said: but you need the diagnostics tool to set them up again. A Constant feature of modern car/vehicle owning life. I did invest in a OBDI reader and diagnostic. As the Sprinter has too many "gizmo`s", which Mercedes want £80+VAT to look at and reset. So far it has paid for itself twice over!. Just resetting the Service Light after an Oil/Filter change, Is chargeable". Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted November 10, 2021 Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 7 minutes ago, PeteH said: I did invest in a OBDI reader and diagnostic. How much was that Pete?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 10, 2021 Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 i got one fromone of the lidl/aldi centre isles for grandson about £12 just a month ago https://www.aldi.co.uk/search?text=fault code reader&category=ALL Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 10, 2021 Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 14 minutes ago, daverclasper said: How much was that Pete?. I paid about £125, on a special offer. (i-carsoft V2.0 (1+4) It`s primarily for the Sprinter. But I use it for the Peugeot. And can add up to 10 other vehicles. Can`t find the original advert. But this is the USA Version, specification is the same. https://www.icarsoft.com/Product/s-362-iCarsoft_CR_V2.html Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 10, 2021 Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 I bought a universal one when I had the Peugeot 306, £30, and a specific one when I had the Jaguar, £60. Sold the Jag and passed it's OBD on. Still got the cheap one which works fine on everything I've tried. The experience from the Jag special sharpened the wits and I understand what it means. You don't need to spend £100+ Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 12 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: I bought a universal one when I had the Peugeot 306, £30, and a specific one when I had the Jaguar, £60. Sold the Jag and passed it's OBD on. Still got the cheap one which works fine on everything I've tried. The experience from the Jag special sharpened the wits and I understand what it means. You don't need to spend £100+ Doug Same here, mine was about £20, tells me what's wrong on the Mondeo and the cars I had before that, and cancels the error codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Unfortunately, not the case with Mercedes😭. The very first issue I had, the result of needing to remove the driver seat to get to some electrics in the seat base. Left me with a Warning light, and a potential MOT fail. £80+Vat to cancel it. The extra few quid for the more sophisticated instrument capable of so doing, was in that case a no brainer. Since then it has been used for both that and the other car. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 On 09/11/2021 at 20:50, Anglefire said: Middle comment is key! I may have said before - quite possible as I have a memory of a nat - my current modern rear discs are going to need to be replaced soon. Probably at the next service which is due. Pads **I Think** are fine from a quick look look through the wheel spokes. The reason for the replacement is due to vibration (Its more of a noise rather than a physical feeling) caused I think by the active cruise control which mostly (Only?) uses the rear brakes to slow when needed. I've thought about doing them myself - I used to do my Land Rover ones - but you need the diagnostics tool to set them up again. And I haven't got one. Had mine serviced yesterday - brakes are 60% worn front rear 70% - rear will need new disks when they are replaced. So should get another 20k out of them given they have done over 53k. I might do the oil service myself next time as it really is money for old rope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 38 minutes ago, Anglefire said: I might do the oil service myself next time as it really is money for old rope. On my modern you need to remove the under tray to get to the filter, so unless you have a pit or hoist very awkward. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 46 minutes ago, 68vitesse said: On my modern you need to remove the under tray to get to the filter, so unless you have a pit or hoist very awkward. Regards Paul. Used to do my landrover - which had a metal undertray (It was offroaded!) and used to do it. I have 4 ramps - though modern cars won't go up all four at once as they are too low - the Land Rover did - just low range (saved falling off the end!) and drive up. So I just jack up the two ends and drop them on whenever i need to work under it when not doing wheel work. Its whether the £100 saved is worth it or if I'd rather do something else more interesting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 Took me 2 hrs to do the daughters modern a Holden Commodore what a pain removing the undertray etc and the smallest oil filter I’d ever seen. I brought an electric oil pump to extract the oil out of the sump via the dip stick but the orifice is too small to take any reasonable pipe what a bummer! I pay the money nowadays and get the dealer to do it ain’t worth the hassle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 4 hours ago, Peter Truman said: Took me 2 hrs to do the daughters modern a Holden Commodore what a pain removing the undertray etc and the smallest oil filter I’d ever seen. I brought an electric oil pump to extract the oil out of the sump via the dip stick but the orifice is too small to take any reasonable pipe what a bummer! I pay the money nowadays and get the dealer to do it ain’t worth the hassle! I must admit to being very lazy with moderns, so my local garage gets those for oil changes now. The Freelander is a nightmare job to change the filter, and the Mondeo had a seized bolt in the undertray so that it wouldn't come off. I supply the oil and filters and the garage charges me £20 for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 I do all my Minor services, But the Sprinter Major service is a lot more involved. So I tend to pay for that one. Only every 30K miles anyway. What gets me is the cost of OIL. Because it Must be a particular specification on account of having a particulate filter, Its £120ish just for the oil, the filter is only £8!. The first time I took the Sump guard off the Mitsubushi, it took 4 hours! to get off. I drilled all the bolts in the end!, laid on my back under it. I replaced them with H-T Allen socket bolts. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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