Pete Lewis

an interesting day, collected Doug and arrived at Jonathans around 1pm, so off with the rockers and set the tappets , off with the dizzy cap and plugs , dougs thumb over number 1 and get TDC and valves equal and closed , but yeHa the ht leads are 1 pot out carbs needed jet centering , and jet setting and a quick balance , choke cable is detached at knob end anyway with all the basics proven and 18month old fuel Va va Roooom shes a goer here comes the bacon sarnie much tlc needed to get her into shape but with a good running motor there's the inspiration t crack on had a nice run home with the Trusty Picasso throwing its toys out , the add blue tank is not venting and sucked the ruddy thing flat, on with the red warnings , dont stop it or you may not restart no mileage warning till halfway home , its showing 700m to not restarting so thats a better option than 'Im stopping call for help, because it doenst know how much blue is in the squashed up bottle .. Grrr spoilt a good day out should have used the T2000

Doug and myself will head for guildford today and wave some magic fingers at it thats 65 miles miles for me and 25 for Doug , must be daft Ha !, more news later today pete

Doug where would we be without poetic licence to widen the subject !!! your studs took 331 to move them Heh ! all local stock long gone Pete

dont get the socket stuck !!! you can with a fiddle jack the tubes out with a large expanding rawl bolt never tried but have seen it done years ago. can also be used to lift followers if there's room to extract them . then fit new tubes only to find they still leak

has the looks of being run on poor oil at sometime in its life the dull light scored shell is not abnormal but the crank has suffered , needs a light grind if you are doing a decent rebuild its worth while Pete

reckon so,, mine are all battery ,, still make a clatter but much quieter and powerfull than diy air impacts mostof which are restricted by small bore hoses. then need a good supply to work at optimum battery ons can be costly but go anywhwere my Mac 1/2 drive does 330 lbft if needed just got a second 3/8 drive lithium powered from a sale in Homebase ...£18 a real bargain should have bought the stock and sold at the pub meets ...

if you look down the drivers O/S back of the engine , see the clutch housing towards the gearbox there is a hole, often covered in old oily dust its a hole about 8mm dia , if a thin screwdriver drops in its missing if it stops a few mm in the hole its OK in the hole should be a pin which goes right through the withdrawal lever . its held in place by a crinkle bush called a tolereance ring these break up and the pin has no head on it so as you use the clutch it falls out on the road generally followed by a hard pedal and no clutch operation and to be corrective the slave is the cylinder that pushes the clutch withdrawl mechanism attached to the gearbox or hsg. a master cylinder is the one on the baulkhead and is the primary unit depressed by the pedals

yes you need to remove the pin easier said than done

Panel illumination needs an earthed body the charge light must not have this pete

Just a thought reading again, engine running , you can engage gears , but no drive that sound's more like the slave is siezed, keeping the clutch disengaged regardless of pedal action. If you cant engage gears with engine running then its bleed or other hydraulic failure enven the dreaded withdrawl pivot pin has dropped out

You can bleed it from under the car you may need to lift it safely to get under , two wheels up a kerb may work if you have no controlable drive if this is not possible then its time to take the gearbox tunnel, cover out and bleed from inside the car the clutch slave is fitted into a clamp bracket on the clutch housing along side the gearbox approx behind the starter motor you will see the metal pipe feeding it. the bleed screw should be above the pipe fitting screwed into the end of the cylinder undo it a half turn and get the pedal pressed to expell any air, a short tube on the nipple into a jam jar or bottlle to catch the fluid use a dot4 fluid .

Ha !

all the diagrams i can see show its a two wire holder ( not an earthed case) one to the white on the ign switch and the other is earthed via the alternator or dynamo control box WL wire brown and yellow you dont want a holder that has an earthed case unless its insulated from wherever it is located or you get a short or bulb on constant Pete

if you can make meccano or even leggo, read a book you can strip a carb. theres little to go wrong if you stick to what doug says and ignore me or the other way round, neither of us are sane if unsure of what you have do one at a time and take photos or make a sketch of anything you remove

no Im Lewis someone else has to be Correct, Ha !! better than X & spurt

A number od simple things with the cleaner off it improves access but need them on to get the mixture correct with them off remove the dash pot piston and raise the air piston with fingers or anything let it drop it must land hard with a clunk. if its not the slide inside may need a clean and a dab of oil mostly any sticking here is because the needle is fouling the jet , this need jet centralisation undo the big nut under the body, the highest half a turn, screw the lower adjusting nut till the jet touches the bottom of the piston, jam a screwdriver down the dashpot tube to hold the air piston down, tap the jet holder , test the drop , if it clunks nip the top nut up back off the mixture jet nut , the lower one 2 full turns this should give a basic running to start up if the cars been standing for months its worth remove the float tops and with a small tube and goggles And air piston top cover and piston removed blow down the jet make sure it blows back into the float area hence goggles needed. also remove the float needle valve make sure no debris is hiding in the supply line and blocked the back of the valve. when you pull the choke make sure when its pushed back in the jet does pop back up to its adjusting nut a prod with the fingers is all thats needed these can stick and you run on full choke without realising if that makes sense have a look see let us know if you find something Pete

Doug if click your mail envelope link you get your messages then click all messages down on the left scroll to folders and it shows you have a limit of 50 and a little chart to show capacity maybe dump some old ones tick box and delete tab who am i to know ....got the tee shirt by wandering around Pete

hi click on avatar and theres a send message link ,, can you send me your address and pick a date and doug and I can arrange to come and eat bacon Pete

no promises but see what we can arrange , will PM you if this works out , what with Holidays and all that goes on Pete

there little to go wrong, stick to the basics i dont know about a youtube but theres loads of other manuals spell out the basics to get them right http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/sugeneral.html http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-hs-type-carburetter-description-adjustments Pete

ive said before we used to be involved with all sorts of testing on trucks and horns were once on the agenda there was when we were taken over by chrysler in the 70s a great usa manual of test procedures completely inappropriate to the UK but we had to go through the motions . we used cranfield aerodrome marked out the distance specified and on the basis we couldn't hear either picked the cheapest !!!!!! Pete

some work to dribble brush somthing like loctite 574 or similar will seap into the tube clearance and goes solid when air is excluded, once the seeped in has set wipe of any excess never tried this but these types of product work very well there is no on car mechanical after the event fix that ive ever come across await more clues pete

Good , nice to know its all ok now pete

yes Doug ........but the carb is upside down and next time you need a head taking you can .......................!!!! Pete

dosnt pay to loose sleep...on reflection but i reckon your last pic has them the right way up Pete