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Everything posted by Gully
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I removed the Mocal spin on conversion from my GT6 and reverted to the original canister - it was simply too much hassle trying to get the filter between the chassis rail, oil pressure switch and oil pressure relief valve. Ended up having to partially remove the conversion plate each time. The oil comes up to pressure rapidly with the original design on mine and only rattles if you Rev it prematurely. If I was paranoid I could churn the engine on the starter with no choke to circulate the oil before every cold start up, but I'm not! For the GT6 it makes more sense to have the adaptor plate attached to a couple of pipes to allow the remote location of the filter and looking through the (now quite aged) Haynes restoration manual these used to be available, but I've not managed to find one. Gully
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Agreed - need to establish if there is a problem with oil pressure before trying to cure it. They're not called worry gauges for nothing! Gully
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The Club Shop one is compatible with both types of bulbs. Gully
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I remembered that I'd kept the boots off my old TREs when I changed them last year as the boots were in good condition. Miraculously, they were where I'd thought they'd be, so have swapped the split one out for one of those. In terms of dimensions, I would need to buy Boot 2 on that linked page - hole diameters around 30mm and 12.5mm. Gully
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Herald camber setting queries
Gully replied to Colin Lindsay's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
The Vitesse 2 Litre and GT6 Mk 1, 2 & 3 Triumph Workshop Manual quotes suspension data for both unladen and static laden vehicles, so a comparison can be drawn. Vitesse Mk 2 saloon and convertible unladen front camber 3.25 degrees, +/- 1.0 degree Vitesse Mk 2 saloon and convertible static laden front camber 2.0 degrees, +/- 1.0 degree (saloon 4 up, convertible 2 up) So the two figures you have may well be unladen and static laden. Gully -
Thanks for the link to the boot company - fitted a new pair of track rod ends last September (NOS ones in a Stanpart box) and one of the boots has split already. Just need to go and have a measure of the old ones to see which ones I need! Gully
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Happy to help - thank you for the good coffee and Belgian bun! Gully
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I usually sit in the unread content view, but didn't know about the spots and stars - that's an excellent tip and saves me scrolling through the longer threads to find where I last left off 😀 Gully
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I've taken some photos tonight. I spaced between the bracket and cowl top fixing to get it to sit against the radiator without distortion. You can also see where I reinforced the folds of the cowl prior to painting. Hope this assists, Gully
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Smear of Vaseline on the rubber seal seems to work well in preventing weeps. Gully
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I fitted an aluminium cowl without valences. I made up two brackets using aluminium angle with two holes at the bottom to fit onto the radiator bracket and two at the top to fix to the cowl. Essentially two legs. I also mechanically reinforced the main folds in the cowl with a couple of small angle brackets as they looked vulnerable. 5 years in and no issues! As Doug mentioned - dramatic improvement in cooling. I've not got any photos to hand, but if I find one I'll post it. Gully
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Triumph sport special - new owner
Gully replied to dommer2000's topic in I thought I'd introduce myself
Welcome! That Special looks fun! Given that you've known the car for so long, I suspect our club specials secretary Trevor Collett would like to hear from you - specials@tssc.org.uk Gully -
Another vote for JBW Minilites - 5J X 13. I bought mine in their Black Friday sale last year (25% off, so 4 for the price of 3). Cheaper than refurbishing my old Minilites. I put 175/70 R13 tyres on mine - Toyo NonoEnergy 3 from Black Circles. Very happy with them. Gully
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Offside rear brake maybe not working correctly
Gully replied to daverclasper's topic in Braking System
Why not simply pop along to your local classic-friendly MOT station and ask them to run it on their brake tester - that will tell you if you a actually have an issue as opposed to supposing you have? You may be seeking a problem you don't actually have! Gully -
Another vote for petrol! Gully
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Worth looking at the John Brown Wheels website - there are plenty of options available on there and they are very helpful if you speak with them. Both sets of Minilites I've had have been tapered nuts. From recollection, either Cosmic or Revolution alloys featured the nut and washer - JBW do copies of both and the appropriate nuts. Gully
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QuickNick's looked better than mine before refurbishing! 😂 Mind you, I don't really hold with cleaning stuff under the bonnet - particularly when it's working fine! Gully
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Welcome! Gully
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My GT6 prefers BP super unleaded - it has expensive taste! 😀 I always use a super or premium unleaded - higher octane and apparently no ethanol. Gully
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Front of my GT6 used to run too much camber and over 13,000 miles in my ownership it did wear the fronts unevenly (by around 1.5mm comparing inside and outside of the tread). I replaced the tyres down to age, not tread depth. So it's a slow action. Compare that with the rear tyre that was running too much toe when I first had the car - it was at the tell-tale limits in under 4,000 miles from essentially new. There's a lot of advice across different online fora about whether the book camber values are still relevant to modern wider radial tyres on our cars. Many argue that zero camber or even slight negative camber is more appropriate. I reduced mine to around 1.0-1.5 degrees positive before putting the new front tyres on! I did remember to reset the toe! Gully
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Bigger car = more plants! 😂 Gully
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Resurrecting this thread... Anyone found a solution yet, please? I'm getting bored with having to pull the pads out of mine, pump out the pistons and then push back to the point where I can just get the pads in to recover sensible pedal travel. I still have the original Girling Type 16P calipers in a box (albeit looking a bit scruffy after 2 years in the darkness) - is it worth getting a seal kit, or seal kit and new pistons, to re-build them? Thanks, Gully
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11/16 are listed as NLA on all the websites I've checked - Rimmers, Canleys, Moss, Paddocks. Rimmers sell a kit to convert to 7/8 which includes the new size fixings. May be worth a call to see if Spitfire Graveyard has a good 11/16 ARB before going that route. Gully
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Did you have an opportunity to walk out into the forest to the Jim Clark memorial? Gully