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Home-made Tools and those you've adapted or modified. And also "tips and tricks".


Bfg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I used my sand blaster cabinet for the first time in a long time recently to clean up the headlight bowls for my Vitesse.
The frustrating thing with the small benchtop machines is the sand line doesn't always pick the sand from the bottom of the machine.
I went to youtube and found a bloke who had set up a benchtop and portable sandblaster to work together.
Basically he fed the cabinet sand from the portable pot so no sand started out in the cabinet.
I went to my local Bunnings and into the plumbing fittings to get some galv fittings. I ended up with a 20mm female right angle, a 20mm x 32mm nipple, 20-15mm reducer and a lock nut.
The photos should tell it all but I drilled a hole in the side of the cabinet next to the airline.
I turned a press fit reduced for inside the 20mm nipple to fit the hose inside and used the bench vise to press these together.
Poke the nipple through the hole and using a nylon spacer I turned wind on the 90 degree fitting with the reducer in the downward pointing section.
Fit a length of clear 20mm hose over the 15mm reducer and this goes into the bucket of blasting media on the floor.
Connect the old sand pickup hose to the pressfit reducer inside the cabinet.
Turn on the compressor and vacuum to keep the dust down and we are blasting.
After using it to blast a few items I made a reducer to go into the pickup end of the media hose but have yet to try it.

So far the only draw back is I have to empty the media that has been used back into the bucket, I use an old baked bean tin.

 

 

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Never thought of taking media from an outside source! I have the large cabinet with the pyramid base so it's a simple case of undoing the bottom hatch and it all drops out, and I just sieve the large debris out of it and refill. I'm always dropping small parts through the grille and having to fish for them. I was blasting for about an hour last night and all was working well but the medium is getting a tad dusty. Yours looks a lot cleaner and certainly sharper.

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Colin mine has a shallow pyramid base.
The first cabinet I bought was too big but it had the bottom hatch.
Last night I was thinking about adding either a hatch or a large screw cap to the bottom of my cabinet.
As it lives on its own trolley I could make a hole in the base to drop the media into its bucket.
Underneath the cabinet I have a small workshop vacuum, the media bucket and the cyclone dust seperator, these all get removed and plugged in when blasting. Improving the light and replacing the window are the next jobs.
It is probably overdue a media replacement as it is getting very dusty and has been used sporadically for several years.
25kg is roughly NZ$50.

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1 hour ago, ahebron said:

It is probably overdue a media replacement as it is getting very dusty and has been used sporadically for several years.
25kg is roughly NZ$50.

Every year almost without fail I went to the NEC, and bought a 25kg tub of Aluminium Oxide or else went home via Carlisle Machine Mart and got it there. For the past number of years I haven't been near either, so recently I was down to dust and had to buy mail order - cost me about £50 GBP once I added delivery. I can't find a local supply other than Industrial that will deliver an entire pallet of the stuff.

I don't have a dust separator, I just use a hoover... :)

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In the dark ages when we were sandblasting the bodywork of the Spitfire, we just collected the sand and sieved it through a fine metal kitchen sieve and ran a magnet wrapped in a plastic bag around to pick up the remaining bits of rust. Worked well and a very cheap fix. One bag of sharp sand did the lot.

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12 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

Isn't using sand unsafe? Silicosis?

Just about any fine dust has a similar effect on the respiratory system. Hence I assume the need for PPE in many similar contexts. A good friend, now deceased, died from a similar condition after working with concrete all his life. Thousands Of Mine workers died from the "dust". not all where Cancers either. John likely has more insight than I on that one?

Pete

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Today I further modified the media blaster cabinet.
I decided to fit a drain to remove the used grit and worked out that I could use a screw cap of a 20 litre oil container but only the round drum not the cube.
The reasoning behind this is the amount of flat plastic around the neck is greater on the round one which I trimmed round
Mark out where I wanted to fit it drill a pilot hole and get the hydraulic hole punch out, it went wrong at this point as the pump was low on oil so I filled it and tried to bleed it which took along time and checking on the internet. I also managed to over pressure the ram which when unplugged spurted out oil.
Any way I got the hole in and fitted the drain.
Then on my trolley I used the largest hole saw I had to drill the base so I could get a hand up to undo the cap and drain the cabinet into the bucket.
Hopefully the photos tell it all.

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14 hours ago, thescrapman said:

Isn't using sand unsafe? Silicosis?

The vacuum on my blast cabinet just sucks all the media out whilst it is airborne. 😞

All those years ago PPE was for sissies (I was immortal in those days - weren't we all??). We know better these days, but back then you were lucky to wrap a hanky around your head as a mask. I remember an episode of  Auf Wiedersehen Pet where Oz was demolishing a wall with a bandana across his face. Health and safety, how things have changed

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  • 5 weeks later...

I used to make outfields  for my bandsaw, and circular saw. The bandsaw had a capacity  for 12 feet diameter, but that was a one-off job. Norm Abraham has an excellent series on YouTube, called New Yankee Workshop.  It's not necessarily about cars; more the process side of things.

Cheers,

Ian. 

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To translate.... And, example. 

A free-standing bandsaw, with a working throat of 10 inches (250mm) The out-field stand was made from a sheet of ply, with 1-inch increments. running out at 90 degrees from the blade. The increments are formed by drilling a small pin hole at each increment. 

An example, perhaps, is to make a 36-inch circle.  First, scribe the circle such that the job can pass through the throat of the bandsaw.  Then, centre the job to be cut, and drill a small hole. Move the centre pin out to 18 inch, which is half the diameter of the 36-inch job. Ensure that the bandsaw has sufficient clearance to commence cutting. With the job centred on the pin, the job now follows around the scribed circle. 

I'm probably not describing this very well, but if you google 'cutting circles with a bandsaw, you should get a good idea.  The 12-foot diameter was needed to prescribe a curve on a piece of wood, which needed to be quite accurate.

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54 minutes ago, PeteH said:

I`ve seen a jigsaw used to cut curves using a length of twine and a Screw as the Pivot.? The brickie needed two identical curves to build a former for an arch, until the mortar set.

Pete

Yes indeed. I haven't done that myself, but can understand how it'll work.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!   This thread is supposed to aid and inspire, not puzzle, but I'll play the game.

The hole must be for access, a screw head?   A pin?   Not the pin in door handles, so is the edge to push something  aside while you undo a fastener, the notch to clear something?    My mental doodling isn't getting anywhere!   But I guess it's a trim lever of some sort.

John

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