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New GT6 MK2 Purchase - The journey of improving it further!


avivalasvegas

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OD use   theres no specific  its what comes to mind get to 4k in 3rd overtaking and click it in , , or cruising anytime over 35 will work 

as for do you dip the clutch or whack it in under power to give all the passengers needing a neck brace  its all up to you 

any smooth change reduces shock waves and wear  so  i feather the clutch  on down chages and or sync the throttle  on up changes 

choice it yours 

trouble with triumph ratios 3rd OD is same as 4th  so a split shift wont work you wont get 6 ratios just 5 

Pete

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Quick update, the speedometer has quit Disco dancing altogether and has simply quit.

Also, there seems to be persistent fuel starvation issue experienced after running out of fuel. I have my doubts but I may have blocked the fuel filter with tank debris last night. Or worse. Mid level throttle input is met with jerking and this is worsened in higher gears at lower speeds - this wasn't the case before running out of fuel last night. 

Here are a couple clicks of the car alongside the star of New vs. Old, the Youtube car show

DSC_1497.JPG

DSC_1486.JPG

DSC_1495.JPG

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Seems likely from the flickering followed by total failure that the speedo cable has broken. Try disconnecting it from the back of the speedo head behind the dash, then while driving feel the inner cable to see if it's turning. 

The angle drive on the speedo output from the overdrive is the other likely culprit. Neither are difficult to replace but they are fiddly, because the H-frame between dash and floor and the gearbox cover need to be removed.

Nigel

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on the speedo Nigels right about the angle drive   many fail as there  must be a (any)  7/16" dia washer fitted between the gearbox and the A drive to prevent end loading 

but a dancing needle seems cable has failed 

as for fuel take the top off the fuel pump ..any debris ,  and youve not been on here for long  any messing with fuel hoses can cut a sliver of rubber off the inside of the hose when its stuffed onto a metal pipe   these are devious little sods that end up jammed in the back of the float needle 

if you  think you have sucked up debris  a foot pump to blow back the pipe  .. pump to tank is worth giving a try 

and to add many of the plastic filters crush with the fuel hose jubilee clip can make the feed very restricted 

its a classic in about 5 years you will have cracked it   Ha 

Pete

 

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Ah yes, the dread rubber slivers! I had pink sludge in my fuel lines, Dyno Rod’d it out with nylon strimmer cord.

And at one point a disintegrating fibre washer floating about in the tank intermittently blocked off the exit. Very perplexing until I found it.

Doug

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I was able to learn a few things about the GT6 after reviewing the extremely detailed service records in depth:

1) The car has had poly bushes installed < 8 years ago. 

2) The car has the spin on filter conversion done over a decade ago.

3) The SU HS6 1 3/4 carbs have had short dashpots, pistons and dampers installed for bonnet clearance 

I have no recent history of steering service, brake work or a carburetor tune up since 2014. The symptoms described continue to persist. I have booked an inspection at Moordale Motors next week.

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I don’t see why you won’t get an honest appraisal from Dale. 

I suspect the suspension work has removed a bit too much of the compliance, making the ride a bit too “raw”

Anyway, report back. We can all offer opinions and you can take a sample, weed out the extremes and hopefully the result will be a good way to go.

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Going back to brakes. And on my spitfire not a Gt6 but same principle applies. 
I replaced all the major components but didn’t fit mintex pads and the brakes were pretty bad initially - improved by getting the rears adjusted more accurately and then just use.  
injave bought some mintex pads - but haven’t swapped them out yet as what i have seem ok.   But might do so over Christmas. 

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4 hours ago, thescrapman said:

Cut middle out of original bumper and weld the cut ends up.

You have to add the rounded ends of a spare set of rear bumpers to get that centre look; otherwise they'll just be a flat cut-off profile. The welds / joins will be hidden in behind the front overriders.

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On 16/11/2020 at 22:27, Anglefire said:

Going back to brakes. And on my spitfire not a Gt6 but same principle applies. 
I replaced all the major components but didn’t fit mintex pads and the brakes were pretty bad initially - improved by getting the rears adjusted more accurately and then just use.  
injave bought some mintex pads - but haven’t swapped them out yet as what i have seem ok.   But might do so over Christmas. 

Do you know the Mintex p/n for Mk3 Spirfire front disc pads?

That said, is there an easy way to identify the pads already fitted? How bad is bad braking 😀

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1 hour ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

 How bad is bad braking 😀

Probably more that they require effort. They are not like modern cars all servo’d up 

having said that when mine were new they were poor at best. But once bedded in - I didn’t follow the mintex procedure (not yet fitted mintex) but basically drove it a while and also got the rears setup better (not going to say properly as I’m not convinced they are perfect yet) 

Now they stop the car quiet well.  But as I have said will probably fit the mintex over the next couple of months and see what I’ve been missing. 

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there are some terrible cardboard pads about , which doesnt help be they green or black some just make wheel cleaning easier  but dont work as a brake

calipers , have all evolved from type 12 14 to 16p/b    depending on the car and age  there the problem of new and recons withdrawing pistons  doenst help

much efficiency is lost if the rear brakes ( which dont do much in % terms ) are not correctly set up

having the handbrake cable hold the shoes open wrecks any base  shoe adjustment and gives you extra  pedal travel you dont need 

then seized pedal pivots and worn pushrod clevis holes all add up to extra pedal travels 

apart from that they work well

but 1144 give the bite to get you hauled up , they can be clattery and do need the metal antisqueal shims and a lube the back plate  coat with a 

metal free lubricant paste such as  Mintex Cera-Tec far better than coppa slip  at noise reductions

Pete

 

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So i had a look over the GT6 yesterday for the new owner,i hope he doesn`t mind me posting my opinion.

It is a really nice looking car and looks to have had tons of work done,including engine work.

Issues are,there is wayyy too much oil at the top of the engine,i thought it must have an external feed but it doesn`t ,it has the rocker vent going to a small catch tank on the bulkhead,then the other side of the catch tank goes to one of the small round filters which is sitting on the chassis by the bulkhead.

Oil seems to be coming out of the pinhole in the filler cap,then running down the back of the engine,visible oil all over the rear of the head.

Also oil on the chassis coming from the catch tank filter.

The carb vent inlets are joined together with a length of braided hose.

There is a vacuum take off from the inlet manifold which used to go to a vacuum guage in the car,(now removed).

Vacuum connection on the carbs is open(nothing connected).

Condition of brake master/discs all look good but,as reported they don`t stop the car,it feels like poor pads to me, and rear setup.

The throttle pedal is way heavy due to what looks like a bed spring attached the the inlet manifold.i am surprised it hasn`t snapped the cable.

It has HS6 carbs and a Kent cam(PH2)?,and estimated CR of 10.5:1,but has standard needles and the original cast exhaust manifold.

The steering column has movement from the bush ,but also moves side to side,something going on with the bracing.

It has Blue poly bushes throughout,if you turn the steering when stationary the rack moves about 10mm side to side,seems to be the bushes being too soft. 

The engine feels like it has a lot more to give.

All in all a nice car with a some easily fixable issues.

Steve

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well done Steve 

dont forget if it does need a throlle cable after removing the bed springs  get a push bike brake cable  and a solderless nipple to make an end nipple 

cheaper and far better than any T cables sold  for us to find they are  just awful.

maybe  the bed springs there to help the braking ???    Ha!

do you feel the oil leakage  is down to heavy breathing or ...poor restricted   breathing 

Pete

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I would say the breathing is not sufficient,the catch tank is too small and is below the level of the rocker outlet.i suggested either doing away with the tank and go back to original or converting to electric fuel pump and use the blank as an extra breather,thats what I did on my 1500 Herald.

Steve

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Thanks again for taking time out of your day to give us all your thoughts on the car, Steve. I must admit I was relieved to hear that someone experienced like you approves of the purchase :)

I have an appointment with Moordale next week to get their thoughts on how to rectify the issues you've raised and more importantly, what it will cost me to rectify them. I'm far too inexperienced with Carbureted cars to attempt this myself (as a classic diesel owner).

I've also looked at replacement tyres and have shortlisted the 175/ 70 R13 Continental Eco Contact 6 rubber unless anyone suggests another better brand? 

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