Pete Lewis Posted November 15, 2020 Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 OD use theres no specific its what comes to mind get to 4k in 3rd overtaking and click it in , , or cruising anytime over 35 will work as for do you dip the clutch or whack it in under power to give all the passengers needing a neck brace its all up to you any smooth change reduces shock waves and wear so i feather the clutch on down chages and or sync the throttle on up changes choice it yours trouble with triumph ratios 3rd OD is same as 4th so a split shift wont work you wont get 6 ratios just 5 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted November 15, 2020 Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 I did the voltage stabiliser in mine, problem persisted, turned out to be the actual fuel sender. Ditto braking, scary, I've got a master cylinder rebuild kit ready to install! Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted November 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 Quick update, the speedometer has quit Disco dancing altogether and has simply quit. Also, there seems to be persistent fuel starvation issue experienced after running out of fuel. I have my doubts but I may have blocked the fuel filter with tank debris last night. Or worse. Mid level throttle input is met with jerking and this is worsened in higher gears at lower speeds - this wasn't the case before running out of fuel last night. Here are a couple clicks of the car alongside the star of New vs. Old, the Youtube car show Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted November 15, 2020 Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 Seems likely from the flickering followed by total failure that the speedo cable has broken. Try disconnecting it from the back of the speedo head behind the dash, then while driving feel the inner cable to see if it's turning. The angle drive on the speedo output from the overdrive is the other likely culprit. Neither are difficult to replace but they are fiddly, because the H-frame between dash and floor and the gearbox cover need to be removed. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 15, 2020 Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 on the speedo Nigels right about the angle drive many fail as there must be a (any) 7/16" dia washer fitted between the gearbox and the A drive to prevent end loading but a dancing needle seems cable has failed as for fuel take the top off the fuel pump ..any debris , and youve not been on here for long any messing with fuel hoses can cut a sliver of rubber off the inside of the hose when its stuffed onto a metal pipe these are devious little sods that end up jammed in the back of the float needle if you think you have sucked up debris a foot pump to blow back the pipe .. pump to tank is worth giving a try and to add many of the plastic filters crush with the fuel hose jubilee clip can make the feed very restricted its a classic in about 5 years you will have cracked it Ha Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 Ah yes, the dread rubber slivers! I had pink sludge in my fuel lines, Dyno Rod’d it out with nylon strimmer cord. And at one point a disintegrating fibre washer floating about in the tank intermittently blocked off the exit. Very perplexing until I found it. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted November 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 I was able to learn a few things about the GT6 after reviewing the extremely detailed service records in depth: 1) The car has had poly bushes installed < 8 years ago. 2) The car has the spin on filter conversion done over a decade ago. 3) The SU HS6 1 3/4 carbs have had short dashpots, pistons and dampers installed for bonnet clearance I have no recent history of steering service, brake work or a carburetor tune up since 2014. The symptoms described continue to persist. I have booked an inspection at Moordale Motors next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 dont get hauled into deep pocket myths , take in whats said and report back pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 I don’t see why you won’t get an honest appraisal from Dale. I suspect the suspension work has removed a bit too much of the compliance, making the ride a bit too “raw” Anyway, report back. We can all offer opinions and you can take a sample, weed out the extremes and hopefully the result will be a good way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 I like the front bumperettes I've been thinking of similar for the daughters Spit do you know what there off please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 Going back to brakes. And on my spitfire not a Gt6 but same principle applies. I replaced all the major components but didn’t fit mintex pads and the brakes were pretty bad initially - improved by getting the rears adjusted more accurately and then just use. injave bought some mintex pads - but haven’t swapped them out yet as what i have seem ok. But might do so over Christmas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted November 17, 2020 Report Share Posted November 17, 2020 10 hours ago, Peter Truman said: I like the front bumperettes I've been thinking of similar for the daughters Spit do you know what there off please. Cut middle out of original bumper and weld the cut ends up. ideal if it is bent, saves cutting up a straight one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 17, 2020 Report Share Posted November 17, 2020 4 hours ago, thescrapman said: Cut middle out of original bumper and weld the cut ends up. You have to add the rounded ends of a spare set of rear bumpers to get that centre look; otherwise they'll just be a flat cut-off profile. The welds / joins will be hidden in behind the front overriders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted November 17, 2020 Report Share Posted November 17, 2020 That’s a good idea Colin unfortunately I’ll need two sets of bumpers aah we’ll time to start a lookin or hopefully my upcountry mate hasn’t totally skipped all his old rubbish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 17, 2020 Report Share Posted November 17, 2020 All you need are two really rusty ones but with good ends.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969Mk3Spitfire Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 On 16/11/2020 at 22:27, Anglefire said: Going back to brakes. And on my spitfire not a Gt6 but same principle applies. I replaced all the major components but didn’t fit mintex pads and the brakes were pretty bad initially - improved by getting the rears adjusted more accurately and then just use. injave bought some mintex pads - but haven’t swapped them out yet as what i have seem ok. But might do so over Christmas. Do you know the Mintex p/n for Mk3 Spirfire front disc pads? That said, is there an easy way to identify the pads already fitted? How bad is bad braking 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 16 minutes ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said: Do you know the Mintex p/n for Mk3 Spirfire front disc pads Club shop sells them, and they will be genuine. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 and bedding in new pads with many but this is from mintex tech mintex bedding.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 1 hour ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said: How bad is bad braking 😀 Probably more that they require effort. They are not like modern cars all servo’d up having said that when mine were new they were poor at best. But once bedded in - I didn’t follow the mintex procedure (not yet fitted mintex) but basically drove it a while and also got the rears setup better (not going to say properly as I’m not convinced they are perfect yet) Now they stop the car quiet well. But as I have said will probably fit the mintex over the next couple of months and see what I’ve been missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 there are some terrible cardboard pads about , which doesnt help be they green or black some just make wheel cleaning easier but dont work as a brake calipers , have all evolved from type 12 14 to 16p/b depending on the car and age there the problem of new and recons withdrawing pistons doenst help much efficiency is lost if the rear brakes ( which dont do much in % terms ) are not correctly set up having the handbrake cable hold the shoes open wrecks any base shoe adjustment and gives you extra pedal travel you dont need then seized pedal pivots and worn pushrod clevis holes all add up to extra pedal travels apart from that they work well but 1144 give the bite to get you hauled up , they can be clattery and do need the metal antisqueal shims and a lube the back plate coat with a metal free lubricant paste such as Mintex Cera-Tec far better than coppa slip at noise reductions Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 So i had a look over the GT6 yesterday for the new owner,i hope he doesn`t mind me posting my opinion. It is a really nice looking car and looks to have had tons of work done,including engine work. Issues are,there is wayyy too much oil at the top of the engine,i thought it must have an external feed but it doesn`t ,it has the rocker vent going to a small catch tank on the bulkhead,then the other side of the catch tank goes to one of the small round filters which is sitting on the chassis by the bulkhead. Oil seems to be coming out of the pinhole in the filler cap,then running down the back of the engine,visible oil all over the rear of the head. Also oil on the chassis coming from the catch tank filter. The carb vent inlets are joined together with a length of braided hose. There is a vacuum take off from the inlet manifold which used to go to a vacuum guage in the car,(now removed). Vacuum connection on the carbs is open(nothing connected). Condition of brake master/discs all look good but,as reported they don`t stop the car,it feels like poor pads to me, and rear setup. The throttle pedal is way heavy due to what looks like a bed spring attached the the inlet manifold.i am surprised it hasn`t snapped the cable. It has HS6 carbs and a Kent cam(PH2)?,and estimated CR of 10.5:1,but has standard needles and the original cast exhaust manifold. The steering column has movement from the bush ,but also moves side to side,something going on with the bracing. It has Blue poly bushes throughout,if you turn the steering when stationary the rack moves about 10mm side to side,seems to be the bushes being too soft. The engine feels like it has a lot more to give. All in all a nice car with a some easily fixable issues. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 Well, look at it this way - if the car was perfect it would be boring. A few simple hands-on jobs really give you a sense of ownership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 well done Steve dont forget if it does need a throlle cable after removing the bed springs get a push bike brake cable and a solderless nipple to make an end nipple cheaper and far better than any T cables sold for us to find they are just awful. maybe the bed springs there to help the braking ??? Ha! do you feel the oil leakage is down to heavy breathing or ...poor restricted breathing Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted November 18, 2020 Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 I would say the breathing is not sufficient,the catch tank is too small and is below the level of the rocker outlet.i suggested either doing away with the tank and go back to original or converting to electric fuel pump and use the blank as an extra breather,thats what I did on my 1500 Herald. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted November 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2020 Thanks again for taking time out of your day to give us all your thoughts on the car, Steve. I must admit I was relieved to hear that someone experienced like you approves of the purchase I have an appointment with Moordale next week to get their thoughts on how to rectify the issues you've raised and more importantly, what it will cost me to rectify them. I'm far too inexperienced with Carbureted cars to attempt this myself (as a classic diesel owner). I've also looked at replacement tyres and have shortlisted the 175/ 70 R13 Continental Eco Contact 6 rubber unless anyone suggests another better brand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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