That was a year that was..

[Bfg]

. . yesterday afternoon, out in the garage was flipping cold ..but I did a little more dismantling and cleaning.. I turned my attentions to the thermostat's housing.  .

^ as it came off.  Btw the aluminium washer under the temp sender was doing absolutely nothing, as the inside end of this unit seats in a cup (like an plumbing olive) and so that washer was loose. 

^ the temperature sender was a right sod to get out.  Penetrating oil and the right-size spanner (courtesy of Austin of England) didn't work, nor did applying heat to the surrounding case.  Even clamping the hex head in the vice and using extension bars didn't want to play magic roundabout.  The more effort I applied the more the brass hex-head slipped.  In the end the darn thing crushed. After that I'd was resigning myself to the likelihood of it shearing off completely and I'd have to drill it out or find a replacement housing ..But it finally shifted. It felt like it had sheared but nope it broke its lock ..even then it did not give in to the struggle.   Determined little "wotsit" !

^ reckon that needs replacing !

Thereafter it was just a matter of dismantling and cleaning up each component.

^ One odd bolt ?  anyway I cleaned up the gasket faces on a flat of emery paper too.

I liked how the bronze-age Waxstat came apart for cleaning.  It's possibly shot but I don't know the critical parts of how it works (again m' motorcycles don't have such sophistication !) so I'll simply push it back together again and drop it in a mug of hot water to see if it does anything.  I assume, when heated the wax expands inside the capsule and the consequential movement along the central pin opens the coolant's waterway.  I'm just not sure if the (presumably rubber) seals on this are any good. 

Mind you, looking in the Moss catalogue, they're only  £4  ..so I'll get a replacement anyway (if only as a spare). 

This one was rated at 82-degrees c. which (according to Moss) is for 'standard' climate.  So, unless y'all advise otherwise I'll get the same. 

And that's all the practical work I got done ..huh !

Pete.    

[Colin Lindsay]

I think the ratings were 88 for Winter and 82 for Summer. I have a drawer full of all sorts of ranges (right down to 78?) but usually stick to the same one, the 82 degree version, as I'm rarely out in conditions where it's so cold that I need a warmer thermostat.

[Bfg]

.

Not a bundle happening at the moment because I'm waiting for the engineering shop to do their thing.  As of Thursday - the crank has been reground but its plugs (to clean out inside the oil-ways to the big end journals have not yet been removed.  The flywheel hasn't yet been modified so the final dynamic balancing cannot be done. The cylinder head has been pressure tested and the core plug at the rear is said to be weeping very slightly.  This was to be done before any valve work so I guess that hasn't been started.  All in all it's disappointing not to have had this all done by now. I understand that the machine operator going in for a cataract operation would cause a delay but I assumed and machine shop would have more than one person to do the job.  Hey ho, nothing I can do but be patient and ready for when the bits come back. 

So the weekend has started early this week..

..I've been suffering garage envy  ..you know who you are  !  ..you people with gorgeously clean and bright garage spaces 

On Friday afternoon my garage started like this . .

^ chipboard sheets that had been painted with household gloss paint..  Wear by the bench, despite there being a rug there most of the time. Scarred from numerous motorcycle centre stands, and spills.

..And by 4:30pm it was like this .  .  with about three quarters of the garage floor freshly repainted.. 

I've lived here some 14 years now (it's a rented house) and soon after I moved in - I laid the 3/4" chipboard floor over a foam plastic membrane and gave it a coat of inexpensive paint.  I have touched it up once but with a heavy car being parked in there for a a couple of years, my own motorcycle centre stands digging in, plus a lot of work ranging from building a wooden boat to car restoration work, to using this space for two years restoring motorcycles (professionally),  to bending, grinding and welding-up a coal burning stove.,  it's had its fair share of use.

Yesterday I moved Katie (one of my Sunbeam motorcycles) across to the other side and painted the floor along that side.  It's only a single coat but so much brighter. 

Pete.

[Bfg]

.

Not much to write home about, despite it being best part of a month since I last posted here. 

But I did receive a parcel of very useful bits this week from a most amicable private seller / club member . . .

 

Parcel Force delivered.  It seems they used the tape as a handle for carrying the box.

* Fortunately the parts inside were over-wrapped with packing materials and otherwise carefully packed with all the small bits and packages inside larger packets ..so was nothing lost nor damaged.

^ Contents were engine parts and ancillaries for this engine and some extras (for the engine I still hope to get with the car).

Including : (top) standard 4A twin-exhaust down-pipes, in mild steel - used but in good shape.  Left : Distributor for the 4A which had been rebuilt by the Distributor Doctor but never fitted. 

The other distributor (lower left)  "originally a 25D Distributor is also thought to be for a 4A, This unit came from Lucas as a special but is to 4A spec – The major difference between 25D & 45D is that the latter does not have vernier control of the advance/retard ignition timing, so is more difficult to set the timing accurately.  In as-new condition having done only a couple of thousand miles"  Well., from my perspective, the distributor on my Sunbeam motorcycles don't have a fine adjuster either, nor did I have the fine adjustment on my last classic ..a Citroen with a GS boxer engine ..and I was very happy with those for normal road use.  So I'll try this and see how I get on with it.  It shouldn't be impossible as I'll otherwise have the reconditioned one from D-D to set everything else up.

Aside from that, I bought NOS brushes for the starter motor. NOS repair kit for the fuel pump. A thermostat. Set of NOS Lodge spark plugs (free).  A set of NOS  Vandervell little-end bushes.  x10 NOS Unipart rocker shaft bushes (I know x16 are required but this is all the seller had). Then there's the rocker shaft, complete with rockers. It has light surface rust on it but the valve pads are as-new,  so if used it certainly hasn't done many miles (..those from my engine are 'impacted' as if valves had been coil-bound).  Bottom row : felt washer for the dipstick, an assortment of studs I need for the manifold and also a set of new brass nuts.  A rocker cover stud (I need two but this is the only one the seller had). A cylinder head stud, a set of new cylinder stud washers and four nuts. A couple of heavy duty disc washers for the engine mounts, and a NOS camshaft front bearing.  

I'm very pleased with these parts. Thank you kind Sir ..you know who you are

Next I need to shop for are a high quality timing chain and (very likely) a set of valve springs.  I also need to by an alternator.

 

All in all the cost of getting a good set of ancillaries is costing a fair percentage of the cost of the engine rebuild itself, which is something many of us don't really budget for when we think of "what is the cost to rebuild an engine ?".   But without the ancillaries also being in good to excellent condition - the car will not run well nor be reliable ..however nice the engine's bearings, valves, pistons and camshaft are. To give an indication of the costs ..

• the (bare) engine machine work and parts would seem to working out about £1800.  
• And to restore the ancillaries . .                                                                to date about  £1200.

These figure exclude the costs of my actually buying this  'spare' engine and its complete package of ancillaries. 

Aside from the usuals like new pistons & liners, the conversion to unleaded valve seats, and the crankshaft's balancing..,  the value of these engine parts include using quality NOS items such as Vandervell main bearings and Glyco big end shells, plus all NOS valves and guides, plus the crankshaft's rear oil seal conversion, a new Newman Ph1 camshaft & its followers. 

Ancillaries include the carburettors, distributor, and the water pump each being professionally restored.  It also includes lightening the flywheel and a new clutch, plus the lightened fan pulleys.

So when all done and dusted - their condition shouldn't be too shabby.    

I'm still waiting upon the machine shop, but I'm not pushing them because I still have to wait for the camshaft (whose blanks are on back order). Accordingly this engine rebuild is on a back burner while I get on with my vintage motorcycle engines.

Regarding 'Chance'  ..the TR4A I'm still hoping to buy from the US.. Well again, I've not heard from the seller for the past few weeks. I dropped him a line on Friday but haven't heard back yet.  Time will tell if he can get things together to prepare the car ready for collection ..at the end of this month !   No money has exchanged hands so I've no reason to suspect anything sinister, it's just his ducks seem to keep wandering off rather than getting all together neatly in a row.   I'll let you know when I hear anything.

So that's it ..a page of no news, but always hopeful for good things to come.

Best regards, Pete

 

[Bfg]

.

Update from America.. this morning a reply from seller's wife included the following . . .

" Ray is almost finished with the new engine installation of our sons 91 Firebird, and then we will get "Chance" ready for his long trip to you. We are still planning on having it  ready by the end of March assuming nothing unexpected happens to slow us down."   . . ." As we get back to work on "Chance", I will try to keep you updated on our progress. I am sure Raymond will be getting in contact with you about the specifics of the shipping requirements." 

Not much I might add to that, but that I'm pleased

Pete.

[Bfg]

. 

Finally I got my Triumph engine parts back from the machine shop.  But to be honest - I'm of mixed emotions ..because things were not exactly as I had expected. . . 

Cylinder head ; now has been pressure tested and the core plugs replaced.  It now has hardened exhaust seats, re-cut inlet valve seats, NOS valves (all of them),  NOS valve guides,  and the cylinder-head gasket face has been skimmed.

Good news is that it's now good to go (..I hope),  unfortunate news is that the original valve guides were a better fit than these.  I thought those from #3 cylinder, and possibly one of those in #4, were a little loose and so might need replacing - but instead they went ahead and changed them all ..and now the all valves feel as loose in the guides as those to #3 cylinder were.! 

As you see I haven't yet unwrapped the cling film - so I also haven't visually checked the valve seats or the job done. I guess next week I''ll do this and also refit the valve springs so that I might do a drain-down test ..just to ensure the valves are well bedded in.

Aside from replacing all the valve guides, I also didn't ask them to, nor want them to skim the gasket face.  I simply asked them to check it for trueness and to advise.  I have no reason to suspect the old gasket had any issues so if it ain't broke - don't try to fix things.  I don't know how much has been skimmed off but I had no desire to increase the compression ratio.   I'm not overly happy. 

Crankshaft ; journals reground to 0.010",   oil-way drilling plugs removed and cleaned out inside, and crankshaft assembly has been balanced..  But.........  I specifically didn't want the main bearing to be reground. (only the big-ends).  The mains didn't need it ..and I so bought original manufacturer NOS main bearing shells of a standard size  ...Which Now Don't Fraking Well Fit !    That has me well and truly 'upset'.   

Balancing . . .

 

Having seen the job done on Mike's (another TR4 owner in the TR register) crankshaft - which necessitated his having to buy a replacement ..because his had been previously 'balanced' so badly and was beyond retrieving - I now see this in mine.   I fail to see how so much needed to be removed from the balancing Triumph had originally done ?   It gets worse on the other end . . .

 

^ this corner has been angle-ground away.   Again, I fail to see how so much needed to be removed from the balancing Triumph had originally done ?  

I am of a mindset that they have done the same damage as Mike's crankshaft endured..   I may be wrong but I really don't think so. But to be sure - I now need to take it to another company to have it checked.  

 

 

Flywheel (right) is good (I think) and I am pleased. As requested - they turned the outer edge of the TR3 flywheel ..to reduce its overall diameter and to take the bolt-on TR4A starter gear ring. I'm told its metal was very hard indeed.  With its starter ring, this is now 17lb in weight. As the standard spec was 31lb - I'm very happy with that weight saving.  The flywheel seen here on the left is an already lightened TR4 one (which I borrowed for dimensions) which weighs in at 19lb. The gear ring weighs 3lb so altogether = 22lb.  I would have been happy with that but it was not mine ..which is why I bought the TR3 one and had it reworked. 

The TR4 flywheel (left) is drilled for the 6-spring type clutch,  my TR3 one has now been drilled for the diaphragm clutch.  It was balanced independently and with the crankshaft.  

Overall the bill with VAT was £40 less than anticipated (all in all very close to £520 total), but until I know that crankshaft has not been ruined I'm left worrying.  I also need to check dimensions and to find myself a set of +0.010 main bearing shells, so the final bill will end up more.

Oh., and I need to drive back to the machine shop because they still have my con-rods and big end shells. My mistake as much as there's I should have remembered.   There was no work to be done on them (I had weight matched them myself) but I supplied them so they might measure for themselves the exact big-end journal size required.

That's all for tonight. 

Pete.

[thescrapman]

Pete

Triumph didn't balance the crankshafts, they just relied on them being about right when cast.

They were not designed to be pushed to the limits, which is why they benefit so much from being dynamically balanced.

what has been ground Off your crank may be what is required to balance it.

[Bfg]

 

Certainly the four heavy iron con-rods with their pistons were with within just 3g  (0.002%) of each other ..so they must have been balanced.  Likewise the original fan has a balance tab and is also marked to ensure it can be dismantled and then go back together again in the correct orientation.  Similarly the flywheel was drilled for balance.  To my mind it is inconceivable that they would have done those and then not balanced the crankshaft. 

Are these not from balancing ?  As you see such notches have not been removed in all instances, nor are they in line (..as if they were some sort of location for a jig).  

^ the two red arrows indicate where these corners has now been angle-ground away. The one has actually cut into the ground side face of the journal. 

..

 

[Bfg]

On 20/03/2020 at 20:20, Bfg said:

I specifically didn't want the main bearing to be reground. (only the big-ends).  The mains didn't need it ..and I so bought original manufacturer NOS main bearing shells of a standard size 

The official workshop manual says ; Main Journal Dia.:  2.4790  - 2.4795".  Today measured the front journal at 2.4675"  = which according to my maths is not the 0.010" increment,  but rather is a 0.012" difference. 

Admittedly my measuring with digital vernier calipers is not so accurate, but my previous pressed-tight measurement recorded a 0.013 - 0.014" difference !  ..so I might only hope that my calipers &/or each of my measurements are way out.  Again I'll have another engineering company check them for me,  but the fear is that this machine operator removed 0.010" from whatever he measured the original part-worn journal size was ..rather than referring to workshop manual. 

I provided the con-rods with shells only for the big ends to be reground to.  But the mains were not meant to have been reground so the machine shop never had the engine block, caps, or bearings to measure or work from. 

I loathe the prospect of dragging this through the courts but just in case - does anyone know of a lawyer who is very good with cases like these.?

Pete.

[johny]

First step is always talk to the workshop so that they can explain or rectify the issues. I believe it later looks much better for your case if you're shown to have been reasonable....

[thescrapman]

Pete 

i think 12 thou is about right, as you want a thou clearance, but only 1 or 2.

They definitely won't have gone from the crank measuring as they would always get it wrong.

they will have a big fat book of everything.

Check it with your bearings, and some of that squishy plastic if needed.

[Bfg]

On Monday my engine's new camshaft arrived from Newman Cams.. I'm glad to see that they are trading and able to provide these excellent camshafts once again. 

.

^ The old camshaft is that in the foreground and a new set of cam followers is seen behind the brand new PH1 camshaft.  I had supplied my engine's camshaft to Newman ..for their opinion as to why, despite almost no wear, there were chips out of the cam lobes ?   Ken Newman's thoughts were that the damage was most likely to have been caused by the valve springs becoming coil bound.

Coil bound  for those unfamiliar with the term, describes the situation when ; the value of (wire diameter) x (the number of coils which make up the spring) when fully compressed is greater than the space they are asked to squeeze into - then things lock up.   ie.,  it is to do with the physical size when compressed and not the stiffness of the spring.

In the scenario of our engine's valve springs ; the camshaft lobe is turned to lift the cam-follower and push-rod, which in turn tilts the rocker arm to open the valve. In doing so the column of forces compress the valve springs between top and bottom collars.  When the cam-lobe lift is greater than standard spec. - the valve opens further, but also the distance between these collars is reduced.  When it is insufficient (too short a length) to accommodate the fully compressed spring's length - it becomes coil-bound.  In the extreme it can totally lock up the valve gear and prevent the engine from turning over.  But when just a little too tight (..even just a few thousands of an inch) then the metal parts flex just enough for it to work, but at the same time - it excessively loads every part.  Something has to give so the spring might slip sideways a little, or the push-rods bend, the rocker arm's contact pads get dented in,  the camshaft is loaded until bits chip off it, and the rocker-arm shaft and bearings get a hammering.  In fact everywhere throughout the valve chain is subjected to more loading that it was intended to, from the cam-chain and its sprockets to the camshaft bearings, to the tappet adjuster screws, and even the bolts which hold the rocker shaft to the cylinder head.    

On my own engine - this would also account for the damage apparent on the rocker arm pads, which have crater like indentations rather than being recessed by long-term wear,  and likewise the excessive wear of the rocker-arm shaft  ..which added together now measure perhaps 0.025" ?   One might only guess what, being that much too tight, has done to the push rods. 

Note.,  when the engine is cold - it might still be free enough to turn freely without coil binding - but as each part thermally expands in length, when the engine gets hot - then it can be too tight - and then damage is done. 

.

As I haven't an accurate means to measure the ratings of the valve springs which were fitted, not least because at the time they with the cylinder head at the machine shop, I had a set sent directly to Ken - who had kindly agreed to measure them for me.  His assessment was that those valve springs were slightly stiffer and with larger diameter wire coils than original specification, and dependent on the cups used were probably too tight for the extra valve lift of the camshaft that was in this engine (# A MC24174 307036) ..and so they became coil bound. According to the Moss catalogue that is a Triumph 'replacement' camshaft number.  

Newman and others recommend standard (original spec.) valve springs are used with the PH1 camshaft.  So mine need to be replaced.

.

^ It's of interest to compare the shape of Newman PH1 camshaft lobes (left) with that of the Triumph ' TR4 replacement' previously fitted.  Using my vernier gauge I've just measured the lift of the Newman cam lobe at  0.2775" compared with 0.266" for the old one, so the Newman has 0.011" more lift.  I cannot say what the difference is in how long the valve is opened.  

That's it for today.  I wish you a good one.

Pete.

 

P.S. and Btw..,  There has been no news / no photos from America, with regard to getting this project TR4A  together enough for shipping - which after I conceded (several times) was meant to have happened at the end of March.  Then they asked for another couple of weeks, because of family preparations needed for the pandemic,  so always glad to be understanding - I suggested the end of April.  Being in lock-down ought to give Raymond a chance to get such tasks at home done.  That deadline is tomorrow.  Again it's disappointing to have heard nothing.

I made the offer to buy this project, complete with its spare TR6 chassis (but without his TR6 engine or the MX5 seats) exactly one year ago now. The offer was counter-proposed and so we agreed on the 6th May.   I try very hard to keep to any agreement I make and to be a man of my word ..even if my own circumstance happen to change.  But I'm feeling aggrieved by this transaction repeatedly not happening and my being led along.  I do feel for the seller, who by his own account has had a difficult year  ..but surely - to pack loose parts of a single car into cardboard boxes or refuse bags and place those inside that car, and to build a pair of simple wooden cradle legs (which I supplied a cutting list for and which I was to pay another $500 for) to mount the spare chassis on - shouldn't have taken more than a weekend ..after all his wife and two adult sons are there to help. Naturally, I feel I've been shown to be a trusting FOOL - which indeed I may be ..but I'd rather preferred not to exhibit it !   

I am upset   ..so as of tomorrow's deadline - I will be writing to Raymond to say that our (repeatedly) time-expired agreement has finally come to an end. 

Whether I pursue my old-man's-final-ambition to own a Michelotti Triumph sports car remains to be seen. I will put this engine together again to the best of my ability,  but then whether I sell it,  mothball it,  or find another car to drop it into is uncertain.  I am undecided.

I would however like to express a  BIG THANK YOU  to all that have been a welcoming friend through this forum..

[yorkshire_spam]

Quality products and very helpful people - I'm a fan of Newman Cams, I've just put a PH2 in my newly built 1500 for my Spitfire.

[rogerguzzi]

1 hour ago, yorkshire_spam said:

Quality products and very helpful people - I'm a fan of Newman Cams, I've just put a PH2 in my newly built 1500 for my Spitfire.

Hello All

             I put a PH2 in my 1500 Spitfire with fully balanced  crank ,rods,  pistons ect  block decked and head reworked by me!

It also runs ITB fuel injection (Microsquirt) 

She still seems to pull the same at low revs but at 2500rpm starts to really come alive and by 3000rpm seems to pull like a train.

Roger

[Bfg]

I was reading TR action #185 from March 2003 the other evening and happened upon a letter penned by Mr Dave Worne which may shed light on the issue of why Triumph crankshafts may require balancing, and how my own crankshaft may actually be fine ..despite first impressions !  

Dave's letter (copied below)  starts off by saying that his TR4's engine was fine.  The engine pulled well and was smooth running, but then due to an unfortunate error the crankshaft was damaged.  And after the engine was rebuilt with another crankshaft - the car just never felt right.  The crank was stripped out again and this time was balanced together with the flywheel.  However, the new balancing on the flywheel was obviously contrary to the original balancing (drilled holes). 

Mr Worne goes on to speculate that the Triumph factory balancing was done as a crankshaft and flywheel assembly, and when his engine's crankshaft was replaced - it threw the whole dynamics out of kilter ..and then a noticeable amount of metal had to be removed to get the new configuration back into balance. 

.

This simple explanation may be nothing new to you guys  ..but I'd not read of it before.  Unfortunately Mr Worne's query ..regarding factory practice of balancing, doesn't appear have subsequently been answered in the magazine, but then I seem to be missing issue #187.

My own TR4A engine ; was not quite the same because the crankshaft has not been changed, but the principle of why it was so far out-of-balance might be ..because when bought it - it lacked the original flywheel.  I bought a TR3 flywheel (..because it's 10 - 12 lb lighter than a TR4A one) and had that converted to suit a TR4A starter motor and clutch.  The crank and the lighter flywheel were each individually balanced, and then balanced (together with the new clutch cover) as an assembly.   The machine shop expressed surprise at how much out of balance it was. And on seeing the amount of metal they had crudely removed - I was led to question whether their balancing had been done correctly. But because of the lock-down I have not had the opportunity to have it checked.  

But I'm thinking Mr Worne's supposition might be both insightful and logical ..after all if Triumph could get away with balancing the rotating assembly once, rather than piece meal and then again all together - it would have been simpler logistics and a useful cost saving.  And insightful for us to also know., because if he is correct - then either changing the crank or fitting a non-original-to-that-particular-engine flywheel, or lightening one - necessitates the whole assembly to be re-balanced  ..which is what most gurus say  (but without their actually explaining ' why ' ..when the parts were originally balanced).

Furthermore, I now wonder if balancing the crankshaft individually was counter productive, insomuch as it may have resulted in more metal being carved out of the crankshaft than might otherwise have been necessary  ..had it only been balanced as a complete assembly. ?   

Of course, if buying an engine individually / loose - it would be really worthwhile to ensure you get the original flywheel to that engine.   

And then there's that old chestnut of broken crankshafts being attributed to removal of the mechanical cooling fan and its extension piece.  Well I must admit that cast-iron piece on my own engine wasn't even true / turned in a lathe to be symmetrical.  And it, its central bolt, the pulley & the fan all together weighed over 3kg.  So sure - if it was likewise factory balanced as part of ' the assembly '  ..then when removed - the crank's balance might be thrown way off. And more so on some engines than others because there had been no effort to make it symmetrical so no two would be the same.. Lighten the flywheel at same time as fitting an electric fan and.. hey-ho the dynamics would be all over the shot..

I'll leave the thought with you.

Pete.

[JohnD]

Balancing an engine must include all the rotating parts, together.    That would include the flywheel, and the clutch cover, the front pulley and chain cog.

A factory might have kit to spin them separately, and so balance them, but no machine shop would.   If they claim to 'balance' a crank alone, walk away.

[Bfg]

TR4 engine rebuild quick update..

You may recall, although I must admit pre-corona-virus activities do seem another life ago,  I had been stripping and cleaning the spare TR4A engine I'd bought, and I'd taken the crankshaft and cylinder head into the machine shop for regrind and balancing, lightening the flywheel, and for the cyl.head to be converted to unleaded.  Upon subsequent receipt of those parts - I was concerned because the crankshaft had been excessively and very crudely angle-ground in an attempt to balance it, which at the time I couldn't understand  ..and so I wanted to take it to another machine shop for a second opinion. The covid lock-down prevented that happening and so the parts were wrapped up and put aside while I got on with rebuilding vintage motorcycle engines.  

However,  just prior to the shut down -  my friend Rich, from the East Saxons group, had kindly lent me a mandrel for positioning the crankshaft's rear scroll seal onto the cylinder block.  I'd not yet used it but John, I think also from our group, wanted to borrow it for a rebuild of a TR2  engine I believe.  So on Saturday morning I pulled the cylinder block out from under its wraps in the back of the garage and set-to quickly doing this task,  before wrapping and dropping that mandrel in for parcel delivery to John in the afternoon.

The following is a comic strip of my fitting the crankshaft's scroll seal on the block . . .

.    

^ the mandrel I borrowed off Rich.  It's in aluminium so it's relatively lightweight to post but vulnerable to getting scratched or dented. Handle with care.  On this one, although seemingly otherwise new there were a couple of snags sitting proud along its edge.  With a fine file I very locally redressed those to be level with the adjacent surfaces.

.

^ the original scroll seal (grey) versus my new scroll seal (anodized cyan blue) with its evolved design to also take a Land-Rover type lip-seal (made of viton).  NB. Before fitting I did run around the new scroll with a craft knife blade to remove a very sharp burr. 

.

^ ..first up the engine stand prevents getting to where the rear crankshaft seal bolts onto, so that had to go. 

.

^ After inverting the crankcase I used the overhead winch (from my garage roof beam) and strops to lower the engine case onto a wooden block. The winch remained in place as a safety guard but the weight rested on the timber ..which also stopped the engine swinging about as I fitted parts.  The mandrel serves as a substitute for the crankshaft and whatever sized main bearing shells might be used ..so it just sits into the rear main bearing seat without shells.  I pre-cleaned the seat and surrounding faces and oiled them, and the mandrel, before positioning it.

.

^  The cap / other half of the main bearing seat was likewise cleaned and oiled before being carefully placed.  With no seals in place - I used the two bolts (alternatively) to pull it down into place by hand.   Tip -  I often use this swivel on the end of the socket's extension bar as an easier-to-grip handle ..to finger tighten bolts rather than using a ratchet. This way I can feel that things are running in squarely and smoothly.  The cap / half seat was pulled down and its rear face leveled with the crankcase before the bolts were finally pinched up tight using the ratchet handle (but not fully torqued up for this operation).  That done, the mandrel was accurately located and pinched in place.

.

^ The rear gasket face of the seat halves were smeared with Wellseal gasket compound and the first half of the new scroll seal was positioned and loosely held in place using the standard bolts. I also used a smear of Wellseal on those bolt threads ..because they go through into the crankcase.  Note. the Land-Rover type / lip seal is not fitted while the scroll seal is being positioned. 

.

^ The other half of the scroll seal was likewise positioned and loosely bolted in place.  It's nigh on impossible to get a feeler gauge inbetween the mandrel and the scroll seal,  and any slack in its bolt holes is very little anyway. However I did gently tap them together and sideways so they were tightly aligned to one another (I could feel no step between one and the other with my finger tip running across the split / join).

.

^ I tried using a powerful LED light array, with the garage doors closed and lights turned off, but could see no light coming through between the mandrel and the scroll seal.  I guess that must be pretty darn close and so tightened up those eight fastenings.  These are only 1/4" screws, fastening against aluminium with little lock washers, so they don't need to be brutally tight.

.

^ Job done. The scroll seal was accurately positioned and now bolted in place on Wellseal compound. I released the two rear main bearing bolts just a little and slipped the mandrel out from the end. 

The cap / half seat will have to lifted off to fit the crankshaft at some time ..but for the time being - the cap can stay put to protect the scroll seal from getting knocked before that task is done.    In my own circumstance I'm not sure when that will be as I haven't yet had the crankshaft checked.  I've also been given short notice to vacate the house (and garage !) I live in. So for the time being this engine's reassembly is low priority.  The outside of the crankcase is painted, and all other bare metal faces inside and around the block have been coated with oil to protect them from humidity / corrosion.  The crankcase is back on its engine stand and then the whole case has been wrapped in plastic bubble wrap to keep the worse of the dust and moisture out.  If I get a chance I'll get the crankshaft in asap but if not then it'll have to go into storage as it is. .

.

 

.. That's All Folks ..for today    

I bid you a good one and good health. 

Pete.

[Bfg]

In case anyone is interested I've just listed the Triumph 2000 flywheel on ebay.  It's used but in really excellent condition, but for what looks to be impact damage to one side of a few teeth (see photos). Imo easily corrected with a file and then very serviceable, or else easily replaced with a new gear ring.   Starter Gear Ring - Shrink on. 

I bought this flywheel with a Triumph TR4 engine, unknowing that it was the wrong one (bolt centres are completely different) and was told that it is from a Triumph 2000 / Triumph 2500 / 2.5pi and possibly the GT6 ..so has been suggested.  I've now got a flywheel for my engine, so this is available to anyone who wants it.

I'll list it in the classified ads.  but look on ebay or drop me a line if you want dimensions or other photos

Cheers, Pete

 

[Bfg]

Just playing around ..

I was hoping to buy a basket-case TR4A from the USA. The car’s seized engine had been unceremoniously dismantled some 20-years previously ..and that as the expression goes “is far as it got”. Ever since it’s been in bits and open to Arkansas humidity. So, while awaiting for it and the numerous other loose bits to be packed inside the rolling shell for shipping across the Atlantic - I attempted to jump-start the project from this end ..by buying another engine. The plan was to rebuild that and have it ready for when said project arrived in the UK. However after a full 12-months of waiting and gently prompting - I politely pulled the plug & walked away. So now I have an engine and no car. Hey ho. !

I also bought an alloy rocker cover. The reason for doing so was threefold.  1. the rocker cover supplied with the ‘spare’ engine was off a TR3 and cosmetically scruffy.  2. finding another very-nice condition steel rocker-cover was likely to be pretty expensive (reflecting the high cost of good quality re-chroming), and  3. I personally find the pressed-tin rocker cover to be somewhat utilitarian looking and not at all stylish for what has again become a prestigious sports car.

I do tend to prefer the softer complexion of polished aluminium over the harsh reflections of chromed steel, so when a stall-trader at Stratford IWE was asking £50 for brand new alloy ones - that seemed the way to go. And then I deliberately selected a TR4 one without the breather pipe rudely poking out of its side.  However., and for me there is very often a however., the alloy cover is a bit of an overly square block.

It did cross my mind to cut n’ shove (reweld) the casting - to be of lower profile ..but then I thought the better of it (rewelding a casting is not always successful). No., I can probably live with its monolithic stature.

And then, despite prolific engine cooling fins being all the rage way back when, even on ‘tuned’ Ford Anglia’s and Mini’s, to my eyes their style (..early 1970’s to me) seems a little incongruous for an early 1960’s Triumph 4-cylinder.  So I considered removing the cooling fins all together ..to leave me with a clutter-free but nicely polished alloy cover. But then decided against it ..because, with just two central bolt fastenings I suspect the underlying cast-aluminium shell would be too weak to withstand being effectively tightened. 

But if., I were to just leave the fins / external stiffening ribs along its centre - then I’d lessen their dominance.  The rocker cover’s style would then reflect “form following function’ rather than trend.  Certainly it was an idea worth playing around with. I did a bit of design review (using Photoshop on the computer) and decided on the route I’d try. I was going to take my angle grinder to the task, but then by chance I overheard a tidbit of conversation between my friends Rich and Mike at the TR group’s club meeting in the Alma.

Mike has a milling machine and was helping Rich with an engineering task. I approached Mike to ask if he might consider doing this little job for me, and as always - incredibly amicable, he proposed I bring the rocker cover along to the next meeting so he might have a look. Mike kindly undertook the task and Covid couldn’t halt progress within his workshop. At the informal ‘takeaway’ June meeting of East Saxons at the Alma, I received the result of his fabulous work. . .

^  Just as I had requested .. Mike has very carefully (and one shouldn’t underestimate the precision and extreme care he took to cut far enough ..but not cut too deep) to remove three of the eight fins, and the superfluous short ones around the back of the filler cap.   

^  He’s done it so well the amount of final hand finishing would be minimal. And to be honest on seeing this done - I simply could not have got into those corners around the filler &/or to do anywhere nearly a good job.. It really is brilliant craftsmanship / machining. 

A little subtlety was to lower the height of the remaining fins, and then also to lower those either side of centre a little more, so their projected height lessens. Excellently done ! 

Huge thanks to Mike.

I did the hand finishing over a couple of evenings and one afternoon at the weekend.. a very useful distraction to all else that’s happening in my little world at this time. 

^ I started off with fine abrasive on power tools, and then wet and dry paper, to take off the slight highs and to round off the edges. . .

I was happy with what was evolving.

^  The left side (with one fin removed) is polishing up nicely.  Already looking more prestigious

Having had a fair amount of experience in polishing motorcycle alloy cases - things went well.  Castings can sometimes be problematic because just below the surface can be pin holes &/or discolouration of the alloys. As bought, there is a little veining evident in this cover’s deep sides ..but where those fins were removed it’s all very good.    

^  Working into those corners was the most difficult parts of the job. On the left-hand side, where two fins had been removed and where there’s a tight corner at the filler, I reworked this little area several times more after this photograph was taken ..to get rid of the scratches I’d made in cutting out the last ¼ mm of one of those fins.   

It’s a time consuming task but satisfying to see the results becoming better with every effort made.

^  Early on I’d started with a round file to roughly shape the intersection of the now-lower fins with the filler neck.

^  But now with the outside corners smooth and shiny, I again reworked the tops of those fins (..rounding them so they looked as if they had been cast to that height) and addressed the last of the awkward hard edges with a needle file. As you can see my fingers are a little large to be get in to such details and to get their reflections fair.  But we do this sort of thing for fun..!

 

And so., after a lot of effort on Mike’s and my own part, we end up with a subtlety different style of rocker cover . . .

^  It is of course still a big square box, but to my mind it better reflects a 1960’s vintage.

Imo, the result is visually more tactile, and its further exposed polished alloy is a compliment to other shiny & polished-alloy components in the engine bay, like the carburettors & thermostat housing  ..and/or whatever other bling I might yet introduce.!

Possibly not to everyone’s taste ..but hey.,  it’s good to celebrate our differences.!  It’s what makes us and our cars all individual.

I owe Mike  BIG THANKS for helping me make this happen.

Pete.

- - -

[Bfg]

A sincere Appeal :

As the TR4A project car from Arkansas is never going to happen for me,  and am imminently I'm loosing my home with its garage < here >  - I'm pushed to move onto the next phase of my life  ..involving immediately downsizing, selling or giving away what I don't see fitting into my future (..best as I might imagine a 5-year plan) ..and this includes my not taking-on any more total-rebuild projects  -  does not mean that I am giving up on my dream to own and to extensively overland-tour in a TR4 / 4A. 

As a carry-over from my former (working)  life & times - I had been restoring Katie  ..my 1948 Sunbeam S7 motorcycle.  Circumstances dictated my finding her a new and enthusiastic custodian,  and that I've recently and successfully (I hope) done,  as I've been paid a deposit by a very nice chap from Somerset. 

The conclusion to that sale / the balance of that money is due on 15th August.  But it would be really upsetting to then see the emotional and fiscal value of that exceptional motorcycle just dwindle away in paying everyday bills,  so although in no great hurry -  I really would like to buy a TR4 or 4A from the proceeds.  

Should a driveable and structurally sound TR4 or 4A  (I happen to prefer an IRS car with overdrive for touring)  happen to come along in the £8 - 10,000 price band - then PLEASE,  pretty Please even .. I'd like to hear of it.    

Yes, I do know that presentable and safe roadworthy TR4A prices now start a bit more than that, but that's all I can afford so I'll be happy to accept a little scuffy example and to spend my own time and my skills to steadily improve it (as a rolling restoration).  Due to my new-found circumstance of having no workshop - it must be road-worthy though, and presentable enough to use as is and perhaps restore later on. 

If you know of such a car and you or the owner feels it really deserves to be appreciated (..loved even), and steadily improved while being used and enjoyed,  and perhaps even shared through my website conversations - then please get in touch. 

I'm in no immediate hurry as I have to move house right now, but perhaps you might be kind enough to remember me when conversations turn to someone possibly wanting to find a new owner for their car.   

BIG  Thank  you,

Pete.

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p.s. I'm also posting this here so you might remember where and find it again, perhaps in a few month's time, whereas those in the for sale or wanted do tend to get lost in time.

[Bfg]

On 12/05/2019 at 13:55, Bfg said:

That was a year that was..

This was the year in which Lyndon Baines Johnson had been sworn in as President of the United States following the assassination of John F. Kennedy (an event which had occurred some 14 months earlier).  The same year Sir Winston Churchill’s funeral took place in London.

Stanley Mathews played in his last 1^st division game, and the unmanned lunar space probe Ranger-8 crashed onto the moon.  The USA sent their first 3,500 combat troops to Vietnam and instigates Rolling Thunder (almost 3-years of sustained aerial bombing).  While back home in Alabama - State troops lay mercilessly into a peaceful protest march (known as Bloody Sunday).  Ironically this happened on the Edmund Pettus Bridge which was named after a former Confederate Brigadier General,  and also Grand Wizard of the Alabama Ku Klux Klan.  Following graphic television coverage of that event,  Lyndon Johnson implemented a Bill of Rights for American Negroes.

Russian Cosmonaut Alexei Leonov leaves his spacecraft for 12 minutes to becomes the first man to walk in space.  ‘My Fair Lady’ wins 8 Academy Awards, and ‘Mary Poppins’ takes five Oscars.   Intelsat-1 communications satellite is deployed - marking a turning point in television, telephone, radio, internet, and military technology.  While down on earth - the Pennine Way is officially opened.

Racing driver Jim Clark wins the Indianapolis 500, and then goes on to win the Formula one championships.  Muhammad Ali knocks out Sonny Liston in a world heavyweight championship rematch, while the Rolling Stones “(I Can't Get No) Satisfaction" is released. The Beatles second movie Help!  premieres and they perform the very first ‘stadium concert’ playing before a 55,600 audience at Shea Stadium in New York City.  

 

 

Cigarette advertising is banned on British television, and Singapore is expelled from the Federation of Malaysia. And then recognised as a sovereign nation.  After almost two years the Auschwitz War Crimes trials in Frankfurt are concluded. 66 former SS personnel receive life sentences and 15 others receive lesser sentences for their doings.  Bob Dylan releases his influential album ‘Highway 61 Revisited’

Incredibly all of the above happened in the first 8 months of that year ..even before Tom & Jerry or the Thunder-Birds were first aired.!  

 

But then.., around about this same time a small sports car was sold ..to an American working in England.  His name was E. Crawford Morton. And he came from New York State. At that time, he was assigned to work in Britain & Europe for the International Paper Co. of  Ticonderoga, NewYork.  

The year was 1965, and so this particular story starts some 54 years ago.  The car he chose  was British Racing Green with a light tan coloured hood and leather seats. It was the new independent rear suspension Triumph TR4A.  And aside from its Laycock type-A overdrive, and it being a Left hand drive car delivered to a customer in England - it was unexceptional. 

Well that is as ‘unexceptional’ as any gleamingly brand new TR4 sports car might be ..when owned by a wealthy American living in Britain during the swinging sixties.  So, Crawford (as his family liked to call him)  took the car to Standard-Triumph’s authorised specialist tuners ; SAH of Leighton Buzzard, Bedfordshire ..for a few ‘enhancements’.   

 

http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/classic-car-images/sah.jpg

Sid A. Hurrell  (SAH)  had made a name for himself preparing and successfully racing a TR2,  indeed his performance tuning parts were used in Triumph’s work’s cars, with aspects of those carried into subsequent production.  The Triumph TR2 soon made a name for itself in both club and International racing events, in sprints, hill climbs, and in rallying.  SAH had a catalogue of special parts for the Triumph Herald (which made also quite an impact within international rally circles) and Vittesse (competitive in saloon car racing).  Parts were developed for the 1300 and 1500cc Triumphs, the Bond, and for the Triumph 2000 and 2500 models. Naturally each model from TR2 onwards were tuned, tweaked and lightened..  If you're not aware of SAH - they later became Triumph-Tune.     

E. Crawford Morton was a great enthusiast of motor racing and whenever an opportunity arose he would take off to a Grand Prix event ..anywhere across Europe.  Apparently he was not only a spectator but according to his nephew Fletch  “Crawford never raced that TR, but he was a very fast and skilled driver who used all of the cars capabilities on those lovely New York Adirondack roads” 

Clearly a man of discernment who also appreciated the advantages of  lightweight components in racing &/or in a true seat-of-the-pants sport-cars, because one of the things Crawford really wanted of  SAH was a set of their knock-on  JA Pearce magnesium-alloy wheels (Magna alloys).  A set of these make wire wheels, alloys and even the works perforated-steel wheels appear heavyweight and/or fragile.

This is a TR4,  so not the same car but coincidentally is in the same colours and with magna wheels.

Of course, as the car was to be left with SAH  anyway -  then the engine might also be tuned, an oil temperature gauge, cooler, and filter fitted.  A Girling ‘brake booster’ and addition driving lamps were also fitted.   It is believed the engine received a Stage-1 tune : for fast road use.  In petrol-head terms that’s raising the TR4A's standard 104bhp to a modest 135bhp - without loosing around town low rev’s driveability.  What’s that 30% more power ?

This was achieved mainly through camshaft and cylinder-head re-work, carb jetting and filters, ignition electrics, and the standard exhaust manifold being swapped out for SAH’s four branch extractor pipes.  It is probable that the engine was also balanced for endurance ..to survive his high-speed jaunts to GP events across Europe.

What's certain is that the wheels and tyres selected to transmit this performance potential to the tarmac were of wide profile.  And, for road use throughout Europe, that meant the wheel-arches needed extending.  Remember we’re talking about a brand new car here.  Incredible as it might seem nowadays - Crawford had SAH replace the TR4’s four wings with fibreglass ones.  These not only had extended wheel arch brows but I understand saved about 15lb in weight ..off each panel. 

That weight saving may not seem very much, but from a standing start in a quarter-mile acceleration run ; a 30lb weight saving would equate to 0.1 seconds difference. Again seemingly not worth the effort, but.. with two otherwise identical cars side by side - the lighter one would be 12-foot in front.!  And aside from aiding acceleration - such weight saving at the extremities also help to centralise the car’s mass for crisper handling. 

These Triumphs aren’t a heavy car anyway,  the weight distribution is also pretty good on the 4-cyclinder model,  and then of course the C of G is very low too.   With IRS and a 30%  increase in power, and also factoring considerable weight saving in having magnesium-alloy wheels,  and a little tweaking of the suspension parts, then we’re beginning to talk about a road car that not only performed exceptionally well but also handled better than most any other on the road at that time.   Jaguars and Astons would have had much more power but a lightweight TR  might well take the inside track ..and be whole lot more fun as well.

Anyway, I’m rambling..   not least because much of this SAH special equipment has been lost to the financial needs of the car’s more recent owner. 

 

Unfortunately this car’s history, subsequent to Crawford,  is at present a little vague - except that there were three further owners, and what we might gather from a bumper sticker, believed to be a pass to a military installation - dated 1982.   So let's fast forward to  June 1998  when the present owner - a Mr. Raymond Lucas Hatfield of  Little Rock, Arkansas  bought this very same TR4A.    " I rescued the car from what was basically a junkyard - a garage that had many old cars abandoned behind it.  My wife said the I was giving it a 'second chance' at being used, and the name stuck ".   Apparently it had been there as junk for years. 

“ Mr. Crawford passed away before I bought the car, but apparently he told the second owner that he had rallied the car in England for several years before returning to the United States, bringing the car with him.  There is evidence on the car that it had been driven hard at some point and suffered some damage ; dents to the frame, some holes and dents in the body.

 I spoke to the second owner, who states he only drove it on the road until about 1980 when he started tearing it apart to rebuild it.  The rebuild stalled and he finally sold it to the individual I bought it from in 1991.   There it sat until 1998 when I bought it "

The car was bought and so collected from Birmingham, Alabama  (some 375 miles away from Little Rock, Arkansas).   Unfortunately on the way home, with the car on a tow dolly - it dropped off its rear right wheel.   “While loading the TR on the dolly,  I noticed that the 'spinner' was missing off the right rear wheel, but thought it of no consequence since I  (and the seller)  were under the impression that these were bolt-on wheels.  In all fairness, I do not recall seeing any part of the spindle showing on that rim to clue any of us to the fact that it was a knock off wheel.

…    I'm quite sure that all of you know what happened now. I made it from Birmingham, AL to about 50 miles from my home in Arkansas before that wheel came off. As it came off, it tore the fiberglass rear fender off.  Fortunately, that was the extent of the damage to the TR, but now I am stuck with the car on the side of the freeway in the middle of the night! "

 

Raymond in his forum posts and in correspondence with myself tells us that the "engine was seized up from being parked in a junkyard for 10 years".   In due course the motor was removed from the car and stripped down,  with the offending piston released from its bore ..courtesy of a big hammer smashing the cylinder liner.

On the four banger TR’s these are wet sleeve (dry on the six cylinder), and rather than simply replace the liners, the owner acquired another short-block TR4 motor.  But in his heart of hearts - he hankered for a Triumph TR5 with its smoother and more powerful six cylinder sea anchor.  And so is found investigated, on American brit-car forums, the options of a more powerful engine to drop into Chance.  

V8’s as well as straight-six Toyota and the 2.8 ltr BMW motors were each considered for  “a sleeper Vette killer”.  At the same time he was also considering selling the overdrive transmission in favour of a modern five-speed box.,  but after much deliberation he opted to buy a six-cylinder TR6’s engine.  In the same transaction came a TR6 chassis - which still appears to be in good shape.  The replacement 4-cylinder short-block was sold on, and the original engine remained in bits.

 

Over the past, almost 21 years of present ownership, the car’s  Second Chance  hasn’t yet come to realisation.  The front brake callipers have I’m told been swapped out for Toyota four-pot items, and the rear suspension has modern shock absorbers in place of the original Armstrong lever arm types.   Raymond  has his own TR enthusiast website which recall some of this car's history (last updated  c.2005 ).   Unfortunately  there is not one photo of the car nor any part of it.   

Below is a recent photo from the for sale advert to which I replied.  

The exceptionally lightweight and strong knock-off Magna wheels were sold for $800, to an English guy in 2003.  And bolt-on Mustang Bullitt (c.2001 model) aluminium alloys fitted instead. The Englishman who bought the wheels was a Mr. Roger Butt “who then restarted the company and made new wheels on the same pattern. The company he worked for (Rotex Developments) had a factory/warehouse here in Arkansas” 

Tidbit : Roger Butt was Company Secretary to Osprey Marine Ltd between February ‘94 and March 1998.  He was appointed Director of Rotex Developments Ltd (Company status : Dissolved ) in August ‘05,  and again appointed Director of J.A. Pearce Engineering Ltd  (Company status : Dissolved )  in 2012.   The latter is of course the same name as having originally made racing and sports wheels.

The car has been stripped out of its interior.  I’m told the original leather seats didn’t withstand being out in the elements ..so they have gone in favour of a pair of high-back Mazda Maida seats, not yet fitted. The dashboard timber, light-tan door cards and carpet set have been replaced, but again not refitted.  The black steering wheel looks like an SAH one (it’s leather rimmed with slotted aluminium spokes). And little niceties like the SAH embossed ashtray and the engine’s SAH cast-alloy rocker-cover have also gone, as has the car’s oil cooler, temp gauge setup, and quick change filter. Non have been replaced.  

The fuel tank  and under-bonnet space are also stripped out, but most of those parts are with the car,  albeit in unknown condition after having been stored for the past 21 years,  plus another 10 years " parked in a junkyard".

From what I can see in photos and has been discussed in email correspondence with Raymond, around the bulkhead’s battery tray is rusted,  as is the lower forward edge of the boot floor and spare wheel well.  These have in part been patched by one of the interim owners,  as has one sill.  Both sills have holes to their inside rear corners, and the floors show sign of nature’s aeration.  The paintwork is scruffy, apparently looking better in the photos than in life.  And the bumpers, like pretty much everything else, are off the car and have seen brighter days.  Most probably there are numerous minor bits missing or beyond repair,  but as an optimist - I’ll presume 90% of the car is there and might be reusable,  if enough time and money is spent in their recondition. 

Oh btw.,  the car is still in Arkansas, which in case you are unaware is 450 miles sorta north of Huston, Texas and similarly from New Orleans.  This being west across state from Memphis Tennessee  ..so not exactly close to any coastline or shipping port.    So, as a largely dismantled non-runner, the overland transport and shipping freight is going to cost £-thousands.   However, even factoring in the transport cost - this TR4A is as cheap as I could find (..cheap is a relative term !).  And unlike most cars from the States ;  it does has an interesting history.  Although not at this time paper-documented ;  the (three remaining) flared grp wings and other remaining SAH parts, as well as email correspondence from the nephew do confirm the story.   Accordingly,  a week last Friday I put a bid on it.  And then I had a counter offer, which I accepted on condition that he’ll prepare and pack the car (together with the 'spare' chassis)  for transport (my proposal below) .   Last Monday evening I received an affirmative response.  

No, I promise to NOT paint this TR4 red.!

So there we are,  I have to sell a motorcycle or two and my Ami-super  but.,  despite it being ridiculously too small a car for someone as old, or tall and broad as myself (6’-5” with the accumulative effects of gravity for 60++ years) - it is what I hanker for.  And if I don’t do it now then I don’t suppose I’ll ever have the chance  again.     

I hope my reckless abandonment of any last remnant of common-sense ..and the consequential issues I’ll have to deal with over the next couple of years will of some passing amusement to you all.

In the meantime - my thanks to the Suffolk section of the TSSC who again made me feel very welcome last Tuesday evening.    

Bfg 

p.s.  As a pushed-into-early-retirement individual (former design engineer) ..this restoration / recommissioning will be on a very tight budget.   As mentioned - I'm also very tall,  so concessions to those factors override any idea of originality.  This will not be a car for the purist as I have no qualms at all in using seats out of a Triumph Herald or else an MG or Austin 7  if they are suitably period styled, available cheaply,  and better accommodate my freak-sized frame.   If anyone chooses to help me out anywhere along the line - then I'd be incredibly grateful - I'm in Suffolk.  Cheers to all !

 

Two years later..,  1967 (MCMLXVII) was a common year starting on a Sunday of the Gregorian calendar, the 1967th year of the common era (CE).  The Doors release their début album, (ironically entitled ).. the Doors.   The Vietnam War Operation Cedar Falls started on January 8th, and NY Times also reported that the U.S. Army is 'conducting secret germ warfare experiments'.  The world is so beautiful that Dr. James Bedford becomes the first person to be cryonically preserved with the intent of future resuscitation (I wonder how he's doing ..and whether he is now the oldest man alive ?)

In Munich, the trial begins of Wilhelm Harster, accused of the murder of 82,856 Jews (including Anne Frank) when he led security police during the German occupation of the Netherlands during the second world war. He is eventually sentenced to 15 years in prison (which on the face of it seems very lenient ?).  U.S. astronauts Gus Grissom, Ed White and Roger Chaffee are killed when fire breaks out in their Apollo 1 spacecraft during a launch pad test.  While in New Orleans, District Attorney Jim Garrison claims he will solve the John F. Kennedy assassination, and that a conspiracy was planned in New Orleans.  The Dutch government supports British EEC membership, and the first North Sea Gas is pumped ashore at Easington, East Riding, Yorkshire.

Joseph Stalin's daughter Svetlana defects to the United States, and nine executives of the German pharmaceutical company Grunenthal are charged for breaking German drug laws because of thalidomide. The supertanker SS Torrey Canyon  runs aground between Land's End and the Scilly Isles and spills huge amounts of oil, while the SEACOM Asian telephone cable is inaugurated.  Martin Luther King Jr. denounces the Vietnam War during a sermon at the Riverside Church in New York City. And Puppet on a String  performed by Sandie Shaw (music and lyrics by Bill Martin and Phil Coulter) WINS the Eurovision Song Contest for the United Kingdom.!  Yeah ! 

In the Academy Awards, hosted by Bob Hope - Best picture goes to A Man For All Seasons, where Paul Scofield plays the obstinate Sir Thomas More, while in Texas - Muhammad Ali refuses military service. He is stripped of his boxing title and barred from professional boxing for 3 years.  And Elvis and Priscilla Beaulieu are married in Las Vegas.

Harold Wilson announces that the United Kingdom has decided to apply for EEC membership, and in May the UK and Ireland do so.  The Jimi Hendrix Experience release their debut album Are You Experienced  (Come back Davy Jones all is forgive ..we love the Monkees !), and The Beatles release Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band  nicknamed in the US as "The Soundtrack of the Summer of Love" ..it was number one on the albums charts throughout the summer of 1967 (..up the Hippies ! ).  Oddly, so I am told, 1967 was also a short year for new vehicle registrations in the UK. 

And Where, you might ask, is this leading us ? 

. . .

. .

.

Well to June 1967 of course

..when this particular car was first registered. . .

Yep, after almost two years from starting this particular thread.., I'm finally getting one. 

 

I had placed an advert in the TR Register's magazine way-back last summer ..after a year of waiting - the green basket-case-project TR4 car from US came to nothing. I then considered a number of other project TR4 / 4A's,  but when unexpectedly given notice to vacate my home (of the previous 16 years), which was an old farm house - i realised I'd also loose my garage, the space and the facilities to restore a car.  I guess, at much the same time, I also recognised that I'm also getting a bit too old to start another long term restoration project (..when I already have others on the go !) and that I would actually like to drive a car once in a while.!   And perhaps equally as relevant was that I'm also getting too old / lazy / comfortable to bother clobbering up with riding gear and tent for touring on a motorcycle.  Instead perhaps with a little lady and a happy dog ..like a spaniel, might be an altogether pleasant traveling experience.  

So I restored and sold 'Katie ' my 1948 Sunbeam S7 motorcycle to fund my buying a roadworthy car, thinking a driving / rolling restoration was the best I might afford.  But then, during the preamble of moving from a farm house to an apartment, I was faced with the question of whether I should junk most-everything I owned and just go and live on my boat.  In the end I decided "no bollocks.. I'll have the boat and the car I really want and I'll buy a shipping container to keep my tools and whatever else from my home in."  ..even though other things will have to go to pay for &/or make room for what I now want.  A change of direction perhaps but a direction to set course on.

That was great in theory but of course my buying that container, paying rent to store it, and the cost of moving - took a bite out of the money I'd put aside for a TR.  Only then, thanks to magazine lead in times, do I start to get response from my magazine advert.  But they were either too expensive or projects that needed total restoration, so then things went quiet again. 

And then out of the blue, in September, just 11 days before my deadline to vacate my home and move, I get a message from a Mr Bob Bell (..in response to that advert in the magazine).  As I said to him at the time "sorry but I cannot afford it, and even if I could - I couldn't do anything about it because I'm right in the middle of moving house" ..on my own, during a pandemic. 

I thought that was the end of that, not least because I was absolutely exhausted and frustrated., and so perhaps a little abrupt I fear.  Possibly a month later, a couple of weeks after I'd moved I dropped him a line and we talked, he sent me photos, and so I was keen.  The car is a TR4A with Independent Rear Suspension (rather than leaf springs) and overdrive, and was perfectly roadworthy ..albeit due for maintenance and checks due to hardly being used.  Importantly she is very much the spec I was after. 

We arranged a date for me to go and see the car (last October) and despite drizzling rain he drove me around the housing estate where he lived. The ride was a little odd insomuch as he seemed to be trying to impress me with the performance, and the steering ..up to 30mph.!  I held on.  The car was in much better condition than I dared hope, but still over my budget.  I might stretch but for the fact I'd spent a good percentage of the money I'd put aside for such a car - on buying a shipping container.!  

Tantalisingly close Pete.. but no coconut ! 

However....... as it happens..... I was also anticipating a gift of inheritance  ..pending the sale of my Aunt's home.  I explained the situation, and Bob incredibly kindly held the car for me, as he was "not using the car through the winter anyway'".  It's taken months, but now I've finally managed to get all me ducks in a row, and to pay him, this past Monday ..some 23 weeks after he first dropped me a line.  Surely that is above and beyond the call of duty ..even for a Triumph man Bob. !  The log book has now been transferred into my name and I have taken classic car insurance through the TR Register.  With the aide of my good friend Rich Crewe-Read from the East Saxons TR Register group, I hope to collect her on Monday or Tuesday next week, when the current covid restrictions are eased a little.

So there we go, this car, coincidentally also known as 'Katie ' thanks to her registration, was I understand first registered in June 1967 and was British racing / Triumph green.  She was being restored through the late 1990's and Bob bought her as an unfinished / being abandoned project.  He finished the task and had her painted red, with a black interior and varnish dashboard.  The work must have been well done because she still looks great from pretty much any angle.  The mileometer reads 37,900 since being put back on the road in 1999.  He tells me that the interior and a few other jobs need doing, and she could do with a tune-up, but that other tasks like poly-bushing and gaiters, fuel pump, etc, and also some re-chroming have not-long-since been done.

Naturally, I feel like a schoolboy awaiting his birthday in springtime ! 

Pete.

[mark powell]

1967, I was doing Graphics at art school.... Can we wind the clocks back please? 

That's a lovely TR,  enjoy!

[Gully]

1967 - I wasn't born! Not even conceived... 😀

That said, June 1967 was important in my life - my parents got married that month!

Glad you've finally got your dream TR - looks great.

Gully

[Dick Twitchen]

1 hour ago, Gully said:

1967 - I wasn't born! Not even conceived...

Gully, and you are on this Forum?!

Dick

ps Cream's Disraeli Gears, and Fairport Convention formed.

[Colin Lindsay]

... and my 1200 Estate was built. I suppose I could have been driven about in the back seat if we'd bought it then...