PeteH Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 If I recall correctly, there where experiments, some years ago, with Electric Propulsion Motors which ran at vastly reduced sub zero temperatures, the idea being to increase the overall efficiency?. There could even have been a monorail system that was used as a Test bed?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 AND there was Brunel's monorail driven by Vacuum and Compressed air. With materials available today, it would have worked much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulfc Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 Chris, NM and all, Thanks for that, again great advice for which I’m really grateful. Didn't expect this topic to be so wide ranging and informative. Never a dull moment with a Triumph! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulfc Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 14 hours ago, chrishawley said: Halogen sealed beam v. H4 units (halogen): Have you decided where to take the main power feed for the revised circuit? Chris, I’m still at the design/planning stage but at the moment I’m thinking I’ll take it from the alternator. It’ll shorten the cable runs and I can make a much tidier arrangement. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 5 hours ago, PeteH said: If I recall correctly, there where experiments, some years ago, with Electric Propulsion Motors which ran at vastly reduced sub zero temperatures, the idea being to increase the overall efficiency? Don't the superconductor computers run at very low / sub zero temperature to increase efficiency? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 6 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Don't the superconductor computers run at very low / sub zero temperature to increase efficiency? As close to zero degrees K as possible. You cannot go lower than 0K. Think they have got very close well under 1K, but seems impossible to hit zero. Allows electrons to move unhindered, so greater conductivity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 -273 C !!! Felt like that up here the other day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 6 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said: -273 C !!! Felt like that up here the other day! Your people can't close doors or windows either? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 2 hours ago, clive said: Think they have got very close well under 1K, but seems impossible to hit zero. Allows electrons to move unhindered, so greater conductivity. <physics thread drift>Technically, there's actually more to superconductivity than just that. A true superconductor has zero resistance but also exhibits a bizarre magnetic field exclusion, which means it's no good for electric motor windings.</physics> However, since all metals conduct better when cold, chilling the motor is useful well before you're into single (or even double) digits Kelvin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 50 minutes ago, NonMember said: <physics thread drift>Technically, there's actually more to superconductivity than just that. A true superconductor has zero resistance but also exhibits a bizarre magnetic field exclusion, which means it's no good for electric motor windings.</physics> However, since all metals conduct better when cold, chilling the motor is useful well before you're into single (or even double) digits Kelvin. I was keeping it simple.... I would say knowing the audience, but somebody may get offended. But I will admit, my knowledge is limited on this stuff. Been 35 years since I last studied it at a reasonable level. Or being honest, even looked at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted December 5, 2021 Report Share Posted December 5, 2021 NonMembers comments, above, got me thinking about what comparisons can be made between halogen and tungsten-vacuum (sealed beam) headlight units. So I dug out my capacious box of unused units. String' em up and see what's brightest: Simple yeah? Not so. First problem was what to compare with what. The H4 halogen units were all fitted with 55w/60w units or higher whereas the TV units were all rated lower than that e.g. 37.5/50, 45/55 and one unit which was 5/10. So, say, comparing a 75/70 H4 with a 37.5/50 TVSB may be a difference, but hardly a comparison. Secondly, and something I'd never really appreciated, is just how much units vary in their beam pattern. Some units produce a sharply defined 'letter box' pattern while others are highly diffused. The first attached photo' shows an H4 55/60 (left) versus a 50/60 TVSB (right) both 'on axis' - very similar looking: But it's a bit different when one shifts slightly off axis. So I guess there's no particular conclusion to this other than maybe a generalization that for classics one has to be prepared to experiment and select 'what's best' according to each driver's requirements and circumstances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted December 5, 2021 Report Share Posted December 5, 2021 Choose from what they look like from behind as if you were driving. We all have different preferences and different eyes. I don't like using cars with Xenons, I prefer Halogens. Not yet driven anything with LED's. I have not done ay reseach into LED's that may replace filament bulbs for headlights. Maybe check that out. I grew up with 6v Motor bikes with Lucas 'Prince of Darkness' lights. Roll over Cristopher Lee. I have known one individual for 40 years who only sees in Black White and Blue. He has no Red or Green receptors. He can see in the dark with no lights. His black and white vision can sense more levels of contrast than mine. He has to use DC for lighting though as he senses flicker up to 100hz. He hates fluorescents and anything other than Tungsten running off the mains. He wired a computer room for one employer using cable markers. It all worked. He is meticulous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVD3500 Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 Philips just released H4 road legal LEDs in the EU.... They are cold white which won't suit everyone but they do look good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 4 minutes ago, DVD3500 said: They are cold white which won't suit everyone but they do look good! That all depends on your preference... as you say, they won't suit all... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 Carrying on the topic, I bought two sets of headlamp wiring kits (WIRKIT) from Carbuilder Solutions. Consists of 30amp relay, cables including in line 15amp fuse. For £7 each set it looks good value. I'm going to take two feeds from the alternator and might use an unused bracket on the top nearside of the bonnet for the relays. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 I'm sure that I just connected mine into the existing headlight circuit...now, where did I put that instruction sheet and was it in understandable English? Edit - Oh no, sorry, I ran a live from the new ten way fuse box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 18 minutes ago, Badwolf said: Edit - Oh no, sorry, I ran a live from the new ten way fuse box. I think I have capacity in my new fuse box but I am trying to shorten the live feed. I'll try both options and see which one looks better. I'm going to cut the loom cables to the relays and fit/extend existing headlamp cables. I'll have to look where to attach a good earth. Any idea what the bracket is/was for? There's the same on the opposite side. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 I think Colin might be along shortly to advise on the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 Looks like 'orns, it does.... great 'orrible 'orns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 1 hour ago, Iain T said: I think I have capacity in my new fuse box I took the headlamp feed off the fuse box busbar as the head lamp kit I bought had it's own integral fuse. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 I took my live feed from the starter solenoid to a 4 way bullet connector where it splits into separate high and dipped circuits, both of which have in-line fuses prior to the relays. The relays are mounted on the engine side valance and earthed at the radiator support strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: Looks like 'orns, it does.... great 'orrible 'orns. I searched for Triumph horns and just got underwear porn sites! After an hour I realised my mistake....... However I fink you're right but my orns are fitted by the front grille. 2 hours ago, GrahamB said: I took my live feed from the starter solenoid to a 4 way bullet connector where it splits into separate high and dipped circuits, both of which have in-line fuses prior to the relays. The relays are mounted on the engine side valance and earthed at the radiator support strut. That's my plan B to fit them on the side Valance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 45 minutes ago, Iain T said: I searched for Triumph horns and just got underwear porn sites! After an hour I realised my mistake....... Look like you may have got on to one of Doug's 'alternative' web sites!!?? I notice that there are no links?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 1 minute ago, Badwolf said: I notice that there are no links?? No chain links but plenty of leather......and feather dusters! On another note where my car is I don't have power, has anyone used the butane soldering irons and which ones work! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 On 03/12/2021 at 14:20, NonMember said: However, since all metals conduct better when cold All the physics stuff way over my head. I guess battery's are a different thing, as apparently have more power when warmer?, and also spark plugs, apparently ignite fuel better if warmed (I wouldn't imagine they warm the fuel)?. Genuinely interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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