thescrapman

The other solution was to have multiple cars that looked the same and all had the same registration number on them. That still works today.

Not Triumph. Look at rear mount and speedo drive, neither look right. Marina?

I don't think you will find anything ULEZ compliant and simple, unless you go 40- years old or more, Back to the 2.5S estate. 🙂

Poor heater I still probably the valve on side of heater, jammed and it has bent the lever that operates it.

You may find that the complex is served by an IDNO, so the responsibility of the developer of the complex. That is very common now-a-days as it allows them to reduce costs by designing and installing their own infrastructure. There will be a small substation at the entrance marking where the boundary is.

Passenger side red holes in wrong place, they should be alongside the green ones. green ones should also be captive. And Mk4 seats should always use the wider holes, so odd that your drivers side doesn't by looks of it.

Just ring TDF, they will look out for any parts as they sort out.

You don't actually show us what the seats look like, so unable to say if they are Mk4 Mk3 floor pans had 6 captive nuts, as US seats were like Mk4 seats. So 4 on inside and 2 on outside, or other way round.

I thought that's was Bobby "Boris" Pickett and the wheel kickers

The angles on your pivots and rods looks wrong.

My old 1200 Estate had a DRS system, just like F1 cars. The wing mirrors would fold back above 40 mph, and go back out as you slowed, they would lock back if you got to 70. That was rare.

I wonder if it should possible to introduce some sort of HF vibration to help loosen any blockages.

In about 5 years time the prices of secondhand cars is going to start to climb, with performance cars going through the roof, as people want a slice of petrol power before they can't get one new. Then the farmer with the barns full of cars will be a very rich man.

Converting car to battery power now seems to involve new high-power and very expensive AC traction motors with all the highly expensive control gear that entails, along with the highly expensive Lithium Ion battery packs needed to feed it. Thus £20k is a cheap job, many companies charging 2 or 3 times that if you want to pay for it to be done for you. Fine if it is a £200k Ferrari or such like and want the latest hi-tech solution. A few years ago you would use a DC motor, along with the much cheaper control gear needed and a boot full of lead-acid batteries. Set the DC motor to feed into the original gearbox, nice cheap solution.

ISTR the "posh" 2000 type wheels are held to the boss by 6 bolts. Just always swapped the whole wheel.

I pursuaded someone else to write the notes each month as I kept forgetting. We meet at the same pub each month so that is sorted. I haven't had an email or a phone call for 5 years now I reckon, could even be more, forums have sorted that. Ought to organise something I suppose.

I reckoned n the DC is also DG, but the lazy guy on the gearbox line couldn't be arsed to look for the G stamp, and C is close enough. Or the G was worn out so he used C perhaps?

Photos from further back may help, or list input shaft type and length, and size of output flange. CB is possibly a badly stamped GB. I think thr LG is DG

Rear window rubbers probably

I would have brought the vice indoors.

Can't understand why you would store it all those years, pour vast amoun ts int it over 13 years, the. Sell it for 1/4 what you paid for the resto. I did note it was done by an Aston specialists, so probably only got about 97 hours for his layout. and no overdrive!

There should be a stamped number on their soemwhere, perhaps the flat section near the rear if the head?

I thought all head numbers were stamped, the cast numbers don't help identify.

You may find the back light isworking, just that your eyes are not sensitive enough to detect the light output from a Lucas 1W bulb.

Surprised it didn't sell. Inbeleive the seller has plenty of other Triumphs so may not need to sell it