Jump to content

Alternative to spire clips for GT6 rear lights?


Colin Lindsay

Recommended Posts

SAL the GT6 has arrived back from the bodyshop looking great and the last thing I want to do is to ruin the paint by sliding and scraping spire clips over the bodywork to secure the rear indicator and reversing lights. I used original metal clips for the chrome strips on the bonnet seams last time it was sprayed and they dug into the new paint bringing tears to my eyes.

Does anyone have a good alternative to spire clips in this area?

9C65C5AE-6DCF-445F-9553-EC5BFB5C66E0_1_105_c.jpg.186f0f64e9a41ad785ea740365627e4c.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The GT6  looks seriously fantastic Colin   .. I want !  (..but can't :( )

but in reply to your query (..I relate !).   There are all sorts of plastic clips to screw into if you can get to the backside to hold onto. Otherwise perhaps something like < these > may be found suitable.  That company (and others I am sure) have a broad selection of different designs.

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lovely job Colin, signal red suits round tail Triumphs perfectly.

As others have said, use small nuts and bolts for the rear lights. Also think about the wing seam finishing strips... Do you really want to scratch the paint by fixing with original springs clips, which have wicked tangs? I've used a non-setting mastic to 'glue' the finishers onto the seams.

Nigel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some good pointers there of speednuts (a real possibility), even nuts and bolts ( hadn't thought of that and yes would work so simply) but I like those plastic spireclips. Tomorrow I'll be in the local Autofactors to see what they have that's roughly equivalent but if no-go with them I'll peruse that site of Pete's. Plastic is a big bonus - no sharp edges to mark the paintwork, even out of sight.

Since you asked, Pete (you didn't, but any chance to show it off, I'm really pleased the way it has turned out!) here's the other end. The aim is to have it fully MOT'd and back on the road by the first local show at start of April - it's currently just about a bare shell.

Wing strips are now bonded on with windscreen adhesive and allegedly will never come off.

23D1B99E-2AC4-40E8-880D-C1C42E4A628B_1_105_c.jpg.c0081ce291b78a0bbd63e8b9c158b2df.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Some good pointers there of speednuts (a real possibility), even nuts and bolts ( hadn't thought of that and yes would work so simply) but I like those plastic spireclips. Tomorrow I'll be in the local Autofactors to see what they have that's roughly equivalent but if no-go with them I'll peruse that site of Pete's. Plastic is a big bonus - no sharp edges to mark the paintwork, even out of sight.

Since you asked, Pete (you didn't, but any chance to show it off, I'm really pleased the way it has turned out!) here's the other end. The aim is to have it fully MOT'd and back on the road by the first local show at start of April - it's currently just about a bare shell.

Wing strips are now bonded on with windscreen adhesive and allegedly will never come off.

23D1B99E-2AC4-40E8-880D-C1C42E4A628B_1_105_c.jpg.c0081ce291b78a0bbd63e8b9c158b2df.jpg

 

I do like that Colin, on steel wheel as well - beautiful.  That's a very special car, you have every right to be a proud owner restorer. B)

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Tony - I think you've just sold me on those! I found a seller on eBay selling the plastic spire clips so have ordered 20, just in case, but the idea of plastic bolts and nuts with a little dab of adhesive on the threads makes perfect sense. I'm averse to drilling or cutting into fresh paint; I always believe that once the coat is broken then it's weakened and immediately begins to flake or crack.

I only realised last night there's no holes for the rear number plate, so that will have to be glued on - it's pressed metal and may be too heavy for adhesive strips used for the plastic versions. I don't care if it falls off just so long as it doesn't damage the paint on the way...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My concern with the plastic bolts is that the indicator/side/reverse light fittings are designed to earth through their mounting bolts! You will need a steel or brass bolt through the fitting and rear panel, then an earth wire (ring terminal) and steel or brass nut on at least one fixing of each light.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awww no! Thanks for that heads-up, otherwise there could have been a lot of head scratching. If there isn't a separate earth wire already fitted to each (can't check at present but I know the reversing lights have two bullet connectors each) I'll run an earth along the loom and splice accordingly, simple enough when the whole interior is out, especially the petrol tank which the lights are in behind. There's an earthing point on the current loom to one of the overrider bolts that I can link to. 

Now you know why I think out loud on here, someone always spots something that I don't think of.

Update: had to run outside and check, but each light has the body earthed through a bullet connector to an earth cable in the loom. Just noticed that the boot floor isn't cut for the fuel pipe outlet. Gosh darn it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would like a £ for every spitty/ gt6 that has mix and not matched rear lamp claw holders with seperate earth , claw earth , single filament  twin filament all muddled up 

and rear lamps like a christmas tree or single bulbed in twin  /wrong holders  Grrr    earthed not earthed  head scratch 

pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Update: had to run outside and check, but each light has the body earthed through a bullet connector to an earth cable in the loom.

Excellent! That's generally more reliable but not always present. My recollection from fitting up my Sptifire was that the earth bullets weren't there on the early type but it seems I mis-remembered. As Pete says, the ones fitted on square-tail Spitfires and GT6s are widely available both with and without the earth connector and many a car has a mixture fitted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll love this one... why the High Street died.

My local way-out-in-the-country Autofactors had neither Waxoyl nor spire clips so I went to a local High Street Auto Supplies.

"Plastic spire clips? No such thing." I told him I'd found some online and he leaned in over the counter.

"Then I suggest you buy them online."

He then proceeded to charge me £11.59 for an aerosol of Waxoyl and I took a last look at his shop on the way out...

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice looking stuff, a double-sided magnet wouldn't work as the plates are not magnetic, so I'm hoping the adhesive side is up to the job. You went and ruined things by mentioning 'pulling the paint off'.... :) but I don't want the plate to fly off the glue side leaving the blank magnetic bit still stuck on... 

Anyway, sheet ordered just this instant - I have other uses planned for it too, including interior trim... thanks for the link.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It wont fly off Colin, I used to have my trade plates done with it, as i was fed up with plod pulling me over if one had dropped down on the parcel shelf and never lost one. you could put a bit of silicon or tiger seal on the sticky side just to be sure.  :) 

Tony.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's such a great idea that I'll make it work. I'm just relieved that I won't have to drill the rear valance, as I've had to cut the floor for the exhaust hangers and the petrol pipe outlet and having to make holes in the pristine paintwork is quite annoying. I'm also intending to use it on the rear trim panels that tend to fall off due to the weight of the speakers I've installed; the clips I normally use aren't up to the job by themselves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, poppyman said:

Solution for your number plate Colin, If you stick it on it will pull the paint off. This stuff is great and people use it for signs, loads of sizes on fleabay, so just stick it to your number plate  :) 

Great if you want to switch to false plates for a quick bank job, whilst out on a run.

More seriously, it looks well handy 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For clips, car fastening of all types try Bresco Vehicle services, www.bresco.com. They are based in Loughborough Leicester. I visited they store and they stock every clip possible. I needed a clip for a modern but the main dealer could not help, total useless. Went to Bresco no problem, even tried it before I brought the clip.

I just walked around recognising clip after clip, that I have been keeping second hand ones just in case.

Graham

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, NonMember said:

My concern with the plastic bolts is that the indicator/side/reverse light fittings are designed to earth through their mounting bolts! You will need a steel or brass bolt through the fitting and rear panel, then an earth wire (ring terminal) and steel or brass nut on at least one fixing of each light.

I wouldn't go near brass bolts and nuts with a barge pole !!!

Put brass in contact with steel and add a sprinkle of water and you get Galvanic Corrosion that will cause the steel to rust faster than you can say Corona Virus.

Likewise I'd also avoid Stainless steel nuts and bolts in contact with normal steel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Graham C said:

I just walked around recognising clip after clip, that I have been keeping second hand ones just in case.

Graham

That's what I do at shows, usually with the thought: "I didn't know you could get those!" 

17 hours ago, Gully said:

Best to chip the fresh paintwork yourself early on - saves all that worrying someone else is going to do so! 😂

Gully

You should have heard me the day the welder rolled sideways instead of forward and chipped the GT6 sill... but all gone now as if it had never been.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...