petegardner_901 Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 Right Next question… thought about fitting an electric fuel pump - SU type - to my Mk3 GT6 as it takes ages cranking up to get the fuel into the carbs. got this reply from Burlen: “The pump most suitable will be an AZX 1308, high pressure 12volt rear mounted pump.This has a minimum flow of 15 gals/hour at up to 3.8psi.” I was hoping to be able to fit it under the bonnet but this would be a pain under the tank at the back. Any thoughts p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 11 minutes ago, petegardner_901 said: Right Next question… thought about fitting an electric fuel pump - SU type - to my Mk3 GT6 as it takes ages cranking up to get the fuel into the carbs. got this reply from Burlen: “The pump most suitable will be an AZX 1308, high pressure 12volt rear mounted pump.This has a minimum flow of 15 gals/hour at up to 3.8psi.” I was hoping to be able to fit it under the bonnet but this would be a pain under the tank at the back. Any thoughts p I’ve fitted a Huco 13001 in my Vitesse in the engine bay by the battery . Works well Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 I fitted a Huco low pressure electric pump. I think it's rated at 2.1psi works a treat. I made an adaptor plate from some 3mm galv sheet that blanks off the original pump aperture in the block and has two additional hole that I put two small cotton reel mounts. The Huco bolts onto these cotton reels. This partly isolates the pump from heat and vibration, we'll in my mind it does! I see Peter's beaten me, but I typed more words! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 On my Mk2 Vitesse I went the other way fitted a Facet cube electric pump but next to the tank in the boot so there’s min suction pipe work. Pumps ain’t the best suckers prefer pushing. Yes it reqd feeding another fused ign power cable thro to the back and used a 3 terminal oil pressure switch to isolate the pump for safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 Huco are teh ones to get, they do high and low pressure verions (you want the low pressure type) and a choice of suck or blow. In teh engine bay you want suck. Quality is ahead of just about everything else available too. HUCO 133010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 I have a Facet SolidState fitted to to my engine test rig, running to carbs. Works well at all revs. On the car, I use a Facet Gold Top as a lifter pump to run a swirl pot, to supply the Pi system. Works constantly and well. It's important to fit the latter on rubber bobbins, or it will cause a lot of noise! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 I'd recommend sticking with the mechanical and reminding yourself that the extra cranking time is pre-filling the oilways so that your bearings last longer. I have a Facet electric in the boot of the Spitfire, which I did mostly because I didn't have a correct mechanical pump for it. The Vitesse went electric for a bit but caused so much grief that I reverted to a rebuilt glass-top mechanical. All my reliability problems disappeared overnight when I did that. The GT6 has a slightly worn tin-top mechanical pump (probably its original one) which really could do with a rebuild, but apart from a bit of extended cranking when it's not been driven for a month, it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 1 hour ago, NonMember said: I'd recommend sticking with the mechanical and reminding yourself that the extra cranking time is pre-filling the oilways so that your bearings last longer. Good point! If the original pump is running dry then I'd suspect that one of the valves is allowing drain-back so maybe an overhaul would help. They're not perfect, the technology is quite a few years old now, so an instant start isn't expected in any case, but Rob's pointed out one of the benefits that I wouldn't have thought of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 I agree with using the extra cranking to fill the oilways, particularly on our cars today which often sit for days or weeks between use and of course the oil drains into the sump. In fact I will often not pull the choke out for a few turns of the key to get oil circulating before it starts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 Yep, Agree with Rob, Colin and Dan. I have drain back, I got a repair kit, but the valves are sort of crimped in and I decided I was likely to repair to destruction so decided against it. I have wondered about putting a one way valve in the fuel line, but that would shorten the oilway pre-filling time. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 I dont think its run back as much as fuel evaporating out of the carb float bowls. Once the fuel is in there it cant be sucked back out as the chamber is open to atmosphere via its overflow port but of course this does allow it to evaporate. It seems to happen in a couple of weeks (or less depending on the ambient temperature) and can leave a sticky residue behind so the answer is to periodically pump more fuel through either by cranking the engine or using the pump manual lever if fitted... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted November 10, 2021 Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 23 hours ago, petegardner_901 said: Any thoughts The type of pump you mention has a generous capacity for a GT6 engine. That type was commonly used on 4.2 L jaguars with 2 inch SU carbs. It is available with either mechanical points or an electronic version. There are, of course, innumerable alternatives. I used Facet cube but only because the physical dimensions made for easy fitment on the left rear chassis close to the outlet from the fuel tank. But I've also used repro 'tin top' fuel pumps and found them cheap and satisfactory; except that the mesh filter in the pump is inadequate and an in line filter is essential. My other thought is to mention that I've been caught out before by surmising that the FP is failing when in fact the starting difficulties were due to other factors. May I take it you have disconnected the fuel hose from the carbs and directly observed the fuel spurt (or lack of) from the hose on cold cranking, to confirm the diagnosis? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 10, 2021 Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 yes a failing mechanical pump is usually first noticed on a long high speed run up a hill where fuel demand is maximum. All of a sudden you get bad misfiring and then when you slow down all is good again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 Dunno if you, actually, did this, but. My Vitesse had a cheap elecric pump fitted with nothing to stop it if there was any sort of mishap. I Notice that you were going to fit a safety device. Good on you. I chose to fit the original glass bowl mechanical pump after fitting new valves to it. I left the electric one in series so that I can drain and run fuel off when required. I also fitted a switch to 'Prime' the system if I leave it standing a while. You could just connect it to the starter motor and achieve this. When younger, I just popped the bonnet up and used the 'Prime' lever. You could put a mechanical cable on that too. I just felt less nervous running with a simpler system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 Take a tip from Ferguson tractor owners and fit a remote handle to the priming lever... much easier to reach especially down the side of a Herald engine block! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 I'm running a Huco sucker on my GT6, mainly due to problems of fuel vaporisation (hot engine block modern fuel). After a long stand, you can clearly hear the carbs filling up. I also allow a bit of cranking before pulling out the choke to help build oil pressure. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 I’ve got a Huco on my Vitesse and very pleased with its performance . It sits next to the Battery . I’m considering adding a brake servo which will probably go next to the battery . Where can I move the Huco . Mine is currently mounted horizontally , can the Huco be vertical ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 I have a Facet Silver top pump on my Vitesse in the boot,fitted when i went to a 2.5 engine. Filter king pressure regulator/filter mounted on the engine valance. Works a treat although i think it needs new rubber pipes as think air is getting in somewhere. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted November 30, 2021 Report Share Posted November 30, 2021 Paul I have mounted my Huco vertically on the front of the n/s suspension turret. Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted November 30, 2021 Report Share Posted November 30, 2021 My first car had the Morris Minor pump fitted in the boot. It had the BMC 'B' series 1489cc engine as fitted to MGA's. That worked fine. With regard to fuel heating up, I fitted a thick gasket between the glass bowl pump and the block running a thick walled rubber pipe round to the carbs over the metal ones as 'Lagging'. As you all know, it is quite a long route passing close to the block and radiator. Most evaporation occurs at the carbs after switching off. If you have a decent battery, it is quite a good feature that the cranking time is long as it does build oil pressure before the engine fires. As with most things in life it is 'Roundabouts and swings'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 30, 2021 Report Share Posted November 30, 2021 My Vitesse electric fan runs on after ignition off (tipically a few minutes) and prevents the usual engine overheat on shutdown plus keeps air moving around the carbs/exhaust to minimise fuel evaporation👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted November 30, 2021 Report Share Posted November 30, 2021 22 hours ago, Paul H said: I’m considering adding a brake servo which will probably go next to the battery . Fitted a servo to my Vitesse over the master cylinders, banjo fittings for vacuum using the smiths valve manifold tapping. no extra holes or modifications needed so completely reversible. Regards Paul. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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