Iain T Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 46 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: No, I had to check and yes it's still 2019 so we haven't missed anything. Make note sell share portfolio in early February! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 Sorry Guys back to subject!!!!!!! Reading the manual it suggests it's a false economy not to change the main bearings They don't seem to be particularly expensive bit is this good advice? I can't see anything wrong with the current ones so far Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 I would change the bearings personally. But make sure you get good ones - I can’t think of the best ones currently available - county are common but are not necessarily the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 County tri-metal preferred, sometime described as heavy duty. Change them whatever. Polish journals as well if you are not getting it ground 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 1 hour ago, AidanT said: Sorry Guys back to subject!!!!!!! Reading the manual it suggests it's a false economy not to change the main bearings They don't seem to be particularly expensive bit is this good advice? I can't see anything wrong with the current ones so far Thx Aidan The cheap ones are not expensive but you can pay quite a bit more..... Remember you could be replacing good quality working bearings with new poorer quality untried ones. If inspection of the existing bearings isnt sufficient they can be measured up and compared with the journal diameters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 12 hours ago, thescrapman said: County tri-metal preferred, sometime described as heavy duty. You get NOS versions coming up for sale online, I bought very good Tri-metal versions a while back (Vandervell possibly?) so I'd check eBay or the like before buying modern equivalents from (some) suppliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 I believe King tri metal bearings are good. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 If your current bearings are in good condition they are probably good quality. If so, they may still be better than a lot of what's out there. The situation isn't too bad on the later 2L engines (where they're common with the 2.5) but supply of decent bearings for the small journal (1600/early Mk1) is a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 That's true, but given the amount of work to get to them again I'd want to at least get an idea of the wear on them. Just because they're not pitted, and still show a smooth lead indium surface, doesn't mean they're not worn. If you don't have the micrometers to measure, you could at least get an idea of bearing clearance with a pack of Plastigage to give a rough idea. Again it comes down to what you want - a simple refresh or an engine rebuild. And if replacing, you would need to get them back in the original positions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 17 minutes ago, Roger K said: That's true, but given the amount of work to get to them again I'd want to at least get an idea of the wear on them. Just because they're not pitted, and still show a smooth lead indium surface, doesn't mean they're not worn. If you don't have the micrometers to measure, you could at least get an idea of bearing clearance with a pack of Plastigage to give a rough idea. Again it comes down to what you want - a simple refresh or an engine rebuild. And if replacing, you would need to get them back in the original positions. Roger I do have a micrometer that measures to .01mm but what do I measure and what should the range be?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 The ends tend to wear less and hence the middle more - so measure at three points and see if they are consistent. There will be a new measurement- but that will be a manufacturers specification I would think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Mmm difficult to measure the centre with flat jaw micrometer. Plus as always you have to interpret the results. Aidan you are in the same conundrum as I was 6 months ago. I replaced them. Iain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 15 minutes ago, Iain T said: Mmm difficult to measure the centre with flat jaw micrometer. Plus as always you have to interpret the results. Aidan you are in the same conundrum as I was 6 months ago. I replaced them. Iain Well if I can't measure them, I'm getting closer to the decision to taking the block, crank and pistons to what seems on chatting to him a good machine shop in Newark. They have good experience of this type of work on classic engines and was recommended by the mechanic in the village Aidan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Could always use a pin or something similar to create a point source. You are only looking for a difference rather than an empirical measurement. Though I tend to agree. Get a good tri-metal set of bearings and replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 8 minutes ago, AidanT said: Well if I can't measure them, I'm getting closer to the decision to taking the block, crank and pistons to what seems on chatting to him a good machine shop in Newark. Good choice, they will inspect and know what to replace in no time at all. Whereas for you to do the same you will have to buy/borrow a bore gauge etc plus they hopefully have what you can't buy....experience! Most shops will gladly show or go through what they do so you can get involved and obviously make decisions because it's your money💸 Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Thanks Iain Here's another quick q, this morning the block was coated in condensation in the garage. It's not heated and moisture does arr8ve via the modern, so any solutions for this please? Thought of putting a bin bag over it but not sure that will work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 I meant a bore micrometer, not an external one. You could use three strips of Plastigage (three separate readings), one at either end of the shell and one centrally. Not as accurate as a gauge but should give you an idea. I'd be aiming for somewhere between 0.001" and 0.0015" as an ideal, might accept 0.002" if not too fussy. I'm sure someone on here will know the factory tolerances. That said, frankly I'd be fitting new good quality shells. I wouldn't want to do it all again if the oil pressure's low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 I recently did mine on a late Mk1 Vitesse in situ as they were just starting to rumble. I used the cheap bearings from Paddocks after reading up on the advantages and disadvantages of the different types available and considering my annual mileage. After a few thousand miles Im still pleased with the result especially the improvement in oil pressure although I did install and a bigger capacity pump at the same time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Crank now out at last - so just a few final questions As above, short term what best to keep moisture off the block? What's the method to remove the dip stick pipe? Should I remove the core plugs? Re the pic of the exterior thrust washer - are the two indents usual? They were on the outside edge Remaining pictures Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Aidan, As a moisture protector, use WD40 for what it was invented for! It's most useful for thate every where on the car, except the brake discs! The grooves on the thrust washer are normal, and there on new ones. You don't remove the dipstick pipe! I suppose you could but it's pressed in, and would be difficult to replace. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Hello Aiden Which oil pump do yuo have? I have 2 TR6 type and I think I blue printed one ! Then realized the spitfire one is different. But going spare if you need one? Pm me if you do Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 the thrust slots /indents should face the crank faces not unusual that they get fitted back to front mine were both the wrong way round and it has not done the crank any favours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: the thrust slots /indents should face the crank faces not unusual that they get fitted back to front mine were both the wrong way round and it has not done the crank any favours Thanks Pete, I will have to double check but I'm sure the other one doesn't have those indents! Hmm Btw just to add I was able to lift the weight of the block but think it best to get an additional person to throw it in the boot!! Job for the new year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 1 hour ago, AidanT said: What's the method to remove the dip stick pipe? Should I remove the core plugs? It's a very tight press fit, so leave it in place unless you really have to, in which case heat the block around it to expand the metal, and drift the tube out from underneath where you can see where it enters the sump. Better to leave it in place though, they're easily damaged. Core plugs - might as well since you've stripped the block and can tilt / shake it about to dislodge any debris in the waterways; just stick a screwdriver through them and twist out. You'll be amazed at what builds up in behind them. Replace like for like; yours will be bucket type rather than domed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 4 hours ago, johny said: I recently did mine on a late Mk1 Vitesse in situ as they were just starting to rumble. Hi Johny. Did you do it with the engine in the chassis and got the sump off?(I have read the info on raising it etc)). If so. Were all the main and the thrust bearings ones accessible?, and were any B/E and mains particularly worn. Also, was the rumbling when driving (rather than just at start up). Also can you describe the noise and location, when they were rumbling please?. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now