New chassis protection

[Dave pb]

Hi

 

I have been fortunate enough to get a new Herald chassis, unused. Its a few years old,  and the odd bit of rust has appeared on the outside, and doubtless quite a bit more on the inside.

 

I'm looking for advice on how best to treat it, before I rebuild my Herald onto it.     How to best coat the inside, and what with?   I was going to kurust (or similar) the outside bits, and paint it and waxoyl it,  or are there better, newer things to do?

Regards

Dave

====

 

[Gary Flinn]

I would recommend either Dynax S50 or Dinitrol 3125 Rust Proofing fluids

I've used both previously on my current classic and the Dinitrol on all my previous Triumphs

Best to warm the cans up in a bucket of hot water for half an hour or so before application, the Dynax S50 is available in larger 750 ML Aerosol cans and they come with a long wand/lance so you can apply into all area of the box sections

If treating a chassis on its own best to turn it over after application and do all the area's again so you ensure full coverage

Its a very messy job so paper overalls, gloves and eye protection are a must and put something underneath to catch the excess as it runs out!       

[Paul H]

11 minutes ago, Gary Flinn said:

I would recommend either Dynax S50 or Dinitrol 3125 Rust Proofing fluids

I've used both previously on my current classic and the Dinitrol on all my previous Triumphs

Best to warm the cans up in a bucket of hot water for half an hour or so before application, the Dynax S50 is available in larger 750 ML Aerosol cans and they come with a long wand/lance so you can apply into all area of the box sections

If treating a chassis on its own best to turn it over after application and do all the area's again so you ensure full coverage

Its a very messy job so paper overalls, gloves and eye protection are a must and put something underneath to catch the excess as it runs out!       

Another vote for Bilthamber products 

Paul

[Colin Lindsay]

Stand it on the front end, or at least as upright as you can, on a pile of old newspapers, and pour Rust Preventer - I use Waxoyl by the gallon - down inside the chassis starting at the open end of the boot outriggers. I heat it until it's liquid, like tea, and shoot it into the chassis with a schutz gun. Every hole along the main rails should receive a good dose.

The Waxoyl will pour down the inside and will settle. Turn it over and repeat. When you have the chassis level, on any hot day the stuff will drip out of any brake pipe holes or whatever until it's fully spread and covered, but you'll know it's coated inside.

[Clive]

Having used Waxoil many years ago, and recently spending a day welding a friends herald (he had a pacemaker fitted, so no more welding for him!) which he uss waxoil on, I would not recommend it. It had lifted in many areas, and rust forming behind it.

I, like others, much prefer Dinitrol 3125 or dynax s50 for inaccessible areas/seams/box sections/chassis etc.

I have also had very good long term results with Dinitrol 4941, which sets hard but does not lift like waxoil. It has been on my spitfire arches etc for 6 years now, 25-30K and al weathers. Still there, I expected to reapply every year! It is a bit like stonechip, but soft/waxy and will come off with white spirit.

I painted my chassis, etch primer on bare steel, then a good primer and a chassis black/zinc rich paint. All lasting well.

[Clive]

And DO make drain holes in the bottom of the an chassis rails at the lowest point near the diff. Then a nice thin coat of your chosen wax sprayed inside.

[Colin Lindsay]

11 minutes ago, clive said:

Having used Waxoil many years ago, and recently spending a day welding a friends herald (he had a pacemaker fitted, so no more welding for him!) which he uss waxoil on, I would not recommend it. It had lifted in many areas, and rust forming behind it.

I, like others, much prefer Dinitrol 3125 or dynax s50 for inaccessible areas/seams/box sections/chassis etc.

I have also had very good long term results with Dinitrol 4941, which sets hard but does not lift like waxoil. It has been on my spitfire arches etc for 6 years now, 25-30K and al weathers. Still there, I expected to reapply every year! It is a bit like stonechip, but soft/waxy and will come off with white spirit.

I painted my chassis, etch primer on bare steel, then a good primer and a chassis black/zinc rich paint. All lasting well.

Ok, so I'm renewing mine every year. If it's neglected yes it will lift or peel and allow rust to form, but I don't think there are any of the wax treatments that are 'add once and forget'. My cars go up on the ramp every year before hitting the road and get a fresh treatment. It's down to personal preference; main thing is that something is used.

[Clive]

The herald is done every year, at MoT time (hence the welding) so was last done a year ago. It just seems to dry out more than other products. Dinitrol is used by OEM carmakers, so should last indefinitely.

But yes, something is better than nothing, but picking dried waxoil out of corners is a pain. Not had that problem with Dinitrol....

[poppyman]

Waxoil does dry out very quickly on outer panels such as door skins. A pal found out the hard way sadly after having new skins fitted. Did my cars with Dynax and still sticky after a number of years. As Clive says it's better than nothing.

Tony.

[Badwolf]

I found that spraying waxoyl with paraffin or white spirit rejuvenated it, but that was years ago when Finnegan's marketed it. These days I read that Dinitrol is the one. Next year, who knows?

[PeteH]

I`ve still got half a tin of Waxoyl, now about 30+years old. Thin it with White spirit and spread it everywhere! using the Air "shutz" gun. Just don`t park where "er inddors" is likely to walk, (or else!!). I recently treat the underside of the Motorhome, stood it on some large sheets of cardboard for a few days, and then gave the cardboard to the the bin men.

Recently I got some Bilthammer S50?. That went in the herald chassis using the long "wand" that comes with it, via every hole I could find. As I had it on a rotator at the time is should have got well coated.

Pete

[daverclasper]

Well, I mixed Waxoyl with some engine oil, and doesn't seem to dry out, even 5 years down the line, who knows?.

Is the more recent stuff, much more expensive, per gallon etc?.

Dave

 

[Unkel Kunkel]

3 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Well, I mixed Waxoyl with some engine oil, and doesn't seem to dry out, even 5 years down the line, who knows?.

Is the more recent stuff, much more expensive, per gallon etc?.

Dave

 

I also found that engine oil ( cheapest   but new oil not old engine oil ) does seem a better solvent / dispersal agent.White spirit “ dries “ the waxoyl, paraffin less so.

 

I find “ Kent cavity wax” seems very Dinitrol-like and seems to be used in the car body repair trade.

It smells similar. It comes in Shutz cans for spraying and also available in aerosols  which come with a plastic extension lance - long  enough for doors etc.

 

[Clive]

11 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Well, I mixed Waxoyl with some engine oil, and doesn't seem to dry out, even 5 years down the line, who knows?.

Is the more recent stuff, much more expensive, per gallon etc?.

Dave

 

When I did my spitfire, I used shultz type gun to apply, and used less than a litre of each type. I had bought 2 L of each, which I try to remember to keep stirring/rotating every few months. One day I will re-apply some more.

[PeteH]

7 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:

.White spirit “ dries “ the waxoyl, paraffin less so.

That`s largely to do with the "sprit" evaporating over time?. Wheras the Oil should`nt.

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

13 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Well, I mixed Waxoyl with some engine oil, and doesn't seem to dry out, even 5 years down the line, who knows?.

Is the more recent stuff, much more expensive, per gallon etc?.

Dave

 

Back in the day they just dispensed with the Waxoyl and used engine oil on its' own. How on earth did you spot an oil leak?

[Jon J 1250]

3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Back in the day they just dispensed with the Waxoyl and used engine oil on its' own. How on earth did you spot an oil leak?

Ha, too true, that is how my Herald 12/50 has lasted nearly 60 years! The original owner covered the underside and everything under the bonnet in oil, many times over, it is literally everywhere!....and guess who has the job of cleaning it off now!

I'm half tempted to think, well it has worked all these years, why remove it, but it has all got dirt soaked into it and looks terrible, I want to get it an bit cleaner underneath, do a proper inspection, and refinish with Bilthamber or Dinitrol products.

I have no desire to take the body off to clean, done that once, and I don't need that pain again, it's solid enough not to need it, and everything fits correctly, which it wont if I take it apart and put it back, guaranteed!

 

[ahebron]

On 02/09/2021 at 20:08, Colin Lindsay said:

Back in the day they just dispensed with the Waxoyl and used engine oil on its' own. How on earth did you spot an oil leak?

It had the biggest puddle underneath😉

[Peter Truman]

Yep in the mid 60's & early 70's living in the NE of England I kept the oil change oils and once a year plugged the 2 heralds we had & later Vitesse  chassis drain holes pumped the old oil into the chassis frame box's then drove up onto the York Moors near Osmotherly pulled the plugs out and let the oil drain out, well there was peat up there on them moors, so it was earth to earth and all that!

[ahebron]

Back before local roads had tarseal it was very common in NZ for locals to spray the old engine oil on the car undersides then drive on the local gravel roads, the dust would seal the oil to the chassis till the next year. This would have been up to the late 60s'.

When I was a wee-un the pit in our garage in the NE of England would freeze up in winter.

[Peter Truman]

Here too, the roads were sprayed we always had black feet when down at the beach house in summer, it was done to keep the dust down.

[Colin Lindsay]

2 hours ago, ahebron said:

When I was a wee-un the pit in our garage in the NE of England would freeze up in winter.

The pit in my first house filled up with water; no matter how often you drained it, within a day or two there was three feet in it again. I had a large plastic container in it and used to float about under the car.

[NonMember]

The structural engineer who did the calculations for my garage at the last house specified a LOT of concrete with a LOT of waterproofing compound for the pit. The builders said "we wouldn't use that much for a swimming pool!" Well, no, you wouldn't, because a little bit of leakage from a pool is tolerable, a flooded pit isn't. And if the pit doesn't flood, it will float, unless it's really heavy. The engineer had done the maths.

[SpitFire6]

I Use AFC50.
Creeps very well.