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Heater valve


1969Mk3Spitfire

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But, drifting back to the thread, I fitted one of these. Opens and closes very easily, unlike the original. And most importantly, on a GT6, closed is CLOSED.

I got it from Amazon USA, but stock is held here as they are a standard fitment to London taxis, apparently.

 

valve.PNG.9c144165d4d37b8d7fb71b88c96e9b83.PNG

Doug

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

yes  much simpler more reliable   a good call Doug ,

car builder solutions show a number of cable pulled valves of a similar design  ,they dont have to be a solid fix as these type of valve operates /moves so easy 

pete

 

What other fittings are required to convert from our standard crxp valve to a Car Builder version ? 
Paul 

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the only snagging point is on herald /vitesse smiths matrix the stubby short pipe the orig valve seals up to might need a short extension od 15mm copper adding to make a hose connector possible  , depends what valve you pick some are just popped inline in the hose feed 

like this  Cable Operated 15mm (5/8") Glass Reinforced Nylon Heater Valve | Car Builder - Kit & Classic Car Parts Specialist

it just floats in space , on the hose run ....somewhere  the cable will reach 

Pete

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Also be aware that nearly all the valves available will have 15mm (5/8") pipes and need appropriate hoses. The ones on our cars are 1/2" hoses so they don't really fit. Pete's mention of 15mm copper is an option - find some 1/2" OD copper pipe and some 15mm (standard plumbing) pipe. The 15mm will slide cleanly over the outside of the 1/2" and can then be soldered on to make an adaptor to connect original size hose to the bigger stuff that will fit the valve.

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The last alternative valve I tried was from a VD Caddy / Polo sort of thing; you can still get them online. They're just a straight-through valve, the lever simply blocks it off with nothing more complicated. The simplest option I found (but then I did have some lying around) was to use the reducing pipe found on the Delaney Gallay heaters; the valve is 15mm and you buy a pipe which reduces down to 1/2 inch for the matrix. One on either side means you have a straight hose from pipe to pipe / matrix with no need for anything else in the system.

s-l1600-75.jpg.558db953662f7728cd000bf69a1681fc.jpg  0013419_heater-hose-stepped-delaney-galley511701_550.jpg.905994d2e3599cdb7aeb6a35f4ba7487.jpg

 

 

 

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I may have just had a new (lucky) one I bought about 9 years ago (couldn't find a rubber diaphragm to rebuild original), the supplier (who manufactures them), recommended leaving in open position when not in use. I also open it, at least for a few miles every time I use car to keep it flowing and clean through valve and matrix.

No problems so far (there, I've said it now!). 

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The replacement valve arrived today and is now fitted. It has p/n 724021 and is described as Spitfire or Herald heater valve. 

Interestingly, the orientation for the cable attachment is 180 deg different compared to the otherwise identical looking valve originally fitted. Looking forward, the cable was originally located forward of the valve, now it’s at the rear. Hence on the dash, what was pull out is now push in an vice versa.

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2 hours ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

The replacement valve arrived today and is now fitted. It has p/n 724021 and is described as Spitfire or Herald heater valve. 

Interestingly, the orientation for the cable attachment is 180 deg different compared to the otherwise identical looking valve originally fitted. Looking forward, the cable was originally located forward of the valve, now it’s at the rear. Hence on the dash, what was pull out is now push in an vice versa.

If It`s the one I remember. (Smiths Heater) I think it`s possible to drill out the rivet holding the top and reverse it?.

Pete

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2 hours ago, PeteH said:

If It`s the one I remember. (Smiths Heater) I think it`s possible to drill out the rivet holding the top and reverse it?

Yes I did that for my Mk2 Vitesse on a locally here in Aus purchased Smiths valve purchased from an Austin Healey rebuilder (Healey Factory). Now in = OFF and out = ON

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I don’t think that turning the base 180 degrees will work. All it would achieve is to change cable connection “from offside towards near side” to “from near side towards offside”. Otherwise, the outer cable retainer and the inner cable nipple positions would be wrong.

My owners handbook shows “in equals off” but now it is “in equals fully open”. This is preferable to the previous state of it not working at all. 

Many thanks to you all.

 

301A744F-F415-474F-9746-79BDC31000C0.jpeg

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