Paula Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 23 minutes ago, daverclasper said: It is a bit messy, though always managed easily for me with car up on the kerb (I haven't got a garage either). I'll be doing it myself from now on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 keep an eye on it do we need to specify the Talc you used ???? if you DIY next time take the side shield off to get a good view of what youre doing Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 35 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: keep an eye on it do we need to specify the Talc you used ???? if you DIY next time take the side shield off to get a good view of what youre doing Pete I went with the classic Johnson’s baby powder. No frills. top tip regarding the shield. The talc also highlighted some cracking on a fuel hose, so it’s off to the club shop for some new stuff. Last time I bough from eBay. Looks like it wasn’t the best quality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 I had a couple of duff lots of supposedly R9 hose from a couple of places, none of it lasted more than 6 months. Since then I ONLY use Gates' Barricade hose (although I sourced my own as I'm not a club member) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 This stuff was supposed to be the real deal. 5398E2FA-6650-43F2-B83B-FB219CC0806C.heic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 16 minutes ago, Paula said: This stuff was supposed to be the real deal. 5398E2FA-6650-43F2-B83B-FB219CC0806C.heic 2.8 MB · 1 download Yes that’s the same spec I purchased from EBay , lasted 6 months , started to melt from the inside forming a paste which blocked the carbs despite having filters . Gates Barricade now fitted Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 10 minutes ago, Paul H said: Yes that’s the same spec I purchased from EBay , lasted 6 months , started to melt from the inside forming a paste which blocked the carbs despite having filters . Gates Barricade now fitted Paul Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 14 minutes ago, Paul H said: Paul Oh dear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 52 minutes ago, Paul H said: Yes that’s the same spec I purchased from EBay I'm a little suspicious of the labelling on that hose, as it's not the type of hose I would use for fuel injection pressures. The "real" R9 stuff usually doesn't have so many claims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 Absolute F**king Sh*t a lot of what's sold on eBay.😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 its a good example of totally inferior fake aftermarket rubbish you can find in motor spares shops and online market places , as an example the hoses on my 74 200 0 are as far as seen original triumph fitted specification its lasting well and shows no signs of the splitting and decomposing rubbish on sale I do have some Barricade ready to fit but so far its not needed there is no doubt its the nasty stuff on sale that drives some of the myths about fuels we had ethanol fuels (Cleveland) 60s it didn't dissolve carburettors and hoses were of a specification to work with it its the scam rogues that give some simple problems a bad myth and despite the millennium myths my 46 year old clock still ticks Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 I had to help with a software upgrade at a job I originally installed in Liverpool - a Prison. But some customers chose to stay with the "buggy" version - just wound the clocks back the relevant number of years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 8 minutes ago, Anglefire said: I had to help with a software upgrade at a job I originally installed in Liverpool - a Prison - just wound the clocks back the relevant number of years. They should have wound them forward.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 (edited) I think I used to now this, but didn't record it (only getting used to the fact my memory is shot). I think?. the Vitesse had different diameters of fuel hose, though now can't remember the details. It doesn't seem common knowledge?. My Mk 1 2Litre, appears to use 1/4" from tank to carbs, though apparently some models (Mk2, I think) has a wider bore (at least from the pump to the carbs). Maybe needs more juice at higher revs? The club shop sells a split metre of the two sizes(as well as one size?), so maybe aware of the difference. Not sure if using incorrect is drastic (eg, too small hose, warm hose in hot water/Vaseline to get it on?. Hose bit too big, clips done up tighter may not leak?. There has been stuff on here on the difference (though whenever I do a search, it doesn't seem to work?). Hope I haven't over complicated things, though maybe worth bearing in mind?. Dave Edited January 3, 2021 by daverclasper 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 I've just been to look at an off cut of the hose l bought from my local motor factors 4 years ago. It is Gates multi fuel. I just took in an old bit and they cut a length of the correct size. No problems to date. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 41 minutes ago, daverclasper said: My Mk 1 2Litre, appears to use 1/4" from tank to carbs, though apparently some models (Mk2, I think) has a wider bore (at least from the pump to the carbs). Yes, the Mk1 has the 1/4" fuel pipe (and hoses) all the way from tank to carbs, as do Heralds and round-tail Spitfires. Later cars - certainly the Mk3 GT6 but I think the Mk4 Spitfire, too - have 5/16" pipe from the tank to the pump, although not for the very first bit out of the tank. I don't think the pump to carbs section changed, though. It doesn't need to as it has fuel pump pressure pushing the fuel through it, whereas the long run up to the pump only has gravity / air pressure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted January 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 On 20/12/2020 at 12:51, Pete Lewis said: sounds a plan the old grease goes very sticky aha Doug's dropped me in it again !!!! you can pull the cord/spiral drive out by undoing the big tube nut on the motor gearbox and just pull the thing out its a couple of ft long before remove the wiper arms , stick a card pointer on the splined drive pointing at 12oclock pull the cord out , to re grease it on refit turn the pointer 180 degrees so when you refit the cord the drive runs on the unused side of the wheelbox gear . as for the motor you can remove the tin cover screws and re grease the worm/gear drive if you strip the crank from the gearbox turn it over 180 deg so again use the unworn side of the spiral drive Pete Ok. I'm halfway through. How much grease should i put back in? it was gunky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 8, 2021 Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 just enough to spread around a bit doesnt need to be filled just grease up the moving bits is lubrication not a swimming contest Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted January 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 It all looks in good nick though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 9, 2021 Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 yes they dont tend to wear inside the park sweeper is the weak link if its broken yours looks fine just a few dabs of grease will revive it easy pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted January 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: yes they dont tend to wear inside the park sweeper is the weak link if its broken yours looks fine just a few dabs of grease will revive it easy pete Do i grease the contact? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 9, 2021 Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 yes a smear inside the tin cover with the contacts ring will work Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 9, 2021 Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 29 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: the park sweeper is the weak link if its broken yours looks fine The other weak link in the park mechanism is the pair of copper rivets that attach the contact plate - just near your thumb in the last photo. Those form the electrical connection to the parking circuit, and they corrode. If you don't have a good electrical connection, they can be replaced with small brass bolts and nuts. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted January 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 7 minutes ago, NonMember said: The other weak link in the park mechanism is the pair of copper rivets that attach the contact plate - just near your thumb in the last photo. Those form the electrical connection to the parking circuit, and they corrode. If you don't have a good electrical connection, they can be replaced with small brass bolts and nuts. They are tight and look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 9, 2021 Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 That's good but it's worth doing an electrical conductivity test - measure the resistance from the cleaned-up ring where the contact's been running to the brown wire that goes to the motor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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