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Home-made Tools and those you've adapted or modified. And also "tips and tricks".


Bfg

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The one with the double ended pins is for removing dash control bezels and yes I have found it necessary at times to use a bar even just an inch out each side. I have only used a bar on dashes that are new to me and have most likely never been removed before, I think its more the metals corroding together.
And IIRC the one with the two bars is for the ignition switch and possibly the fan switch.
I found them in the glovebox today, I amde them a few years ago to help dismantle dashes

The blue thing on the right is the end of a ball point pen.

 

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10 hours ago, Bfg said:

^ I was misusing one of those on Friday . .

P1340602s.jpg.b10fee6562a997f57e9555014399f734.jpg.

^ when I'm cleaning the thread of nuts - I use my brake adjuster as a convenient handle for the thread's tap - then I have the other end free to turn the nut.  In this instance I was re-using very old but specifically shaped BSF nuts on a vintage motorcycle ..and then need to accurately but low torque them down for even tightness on aluminium cases - so their threads had to be clean and run free.  

Perhaps the misuse of bought (or otherwise acquired) tools satisfies the criteria ?

Pete.

Hi Pete, i never thought of using the spanner on taps, i have usually used a small adjustable when the proper tool won't fit. Very good tip that. If people like your good self ask for idea's and tip's or help i will continue try and offer a solution and where to get it, despite what Nojh say's :) After all it it is your thread Pete and doe's nobody any harm. I hope you are keeping well mate.

Tony. 

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1 minute ago, ahebron said:

I think I made a mistake.
The one with the 2 bars is for the fan switch only and one end of the other one does the ignition switch.

I think it depends on the ignition switch. My Spitfire's has a two-slot nut like the fan switch.

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23 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:

Yes, not enough clearance around the inner wing to get the head off with the studs in place. (Even with the exhaust manifold removed)

Pictures:

DSC_1911.thumb.JPG.ab91fce89b9f5d3c5c5d1d2ea731af11.JPGDSC_1912.thumb.JPG.faab3a89cc88c52547b46601b3b6e10d.JPG

 

You do wonder how much power/torque is lost in that horrid exhaust manifold.
My dad recently had a similar manifold replaced by long branch headers on his Lagonda Rapier and difference is like day and night.

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23 minutes ago, ahebron said:

You do wonder how much power/torque is lost in that horrid exhaust manifold.
My dad recently had a similar manifold replaced by long branch headers on his Lagonda Rapier and difference is like day and night.

Bloody awful isn't it? But I've pondered it long and hard and can't see any real improvements unless you want to end up with something that looks like this:

tubman.JPG

(Source: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1522163&i=260 Image (C) "davepoth" one assumes)

 

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11 hours ago, poppyman said:

I hope you are keeping well mate.

I am indeed thank you Tony..    

Negotiating the purchase of a Triumph is quite exciting.!    

I'm hopeful this week

      .. but then next week I might well be thinking ..what the *!*  were you thinking Bfg ! ?

.

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I don't like to see damaged tools being thrown out, I found these two pair of old mole grips in a skip before the shutdown, one set the jaws were knackered the other absolutely rusted and broken spring, id put them in the garage and forgotten about them. I needed some extra welding clamps so I renewed the spring with similar I found lurking about the garage, de rusted all and modified the jaws from an old caravan hitch clamp. their back in service now.

moles 2.jpg

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Door magnet to detect filler . This magnet will not fall off an area for testing . I’m using it on the doors , wings, bonnet to see where’s filler has been applied and how deep. It works by lifting the “lever” and feeling the pressure . Check the pressure on a solid metal section and again on suspect filling areas . It’s working for me 

2AB22AFF-F53B-47CD-B8EB-1771422922D0.thumb.jpeg.6c43833e409cdc424f105580dbecbd81.jpeg

Paul

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On the subject of magnets... I have a pack of roughly 8mm diameter circular rare earth magnets in the garage (stuck to the side to the tool box)...

Very handy for taping to a "stick" to retrieve dropped nuts/bolts/washers... BUT also they fit really nicely inside my 3/8" drive sockets - when working in tight spaces I can put the magnet and bolt into the socket, use the socket/extension to manouver the bolt into place and get it started without it dropping out and falling on the floor 1000s of times. (I'm thinking things like re-ftting the master cylinder brackets and stuff like that!)

 

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Why tape the... Oh, a wooden stick!  Doh!

I have a small telescopic stick with magnet on the end.  V.useful for picking up nuts that have fallen in somewhere, but not long enough for the floor.      I keep it in a plastic bag, the ones with a seal at the top, as otherwise, even in a tool drawer, they accumulate iron dust.      They will still pick things up from inside the bag,  and anything extra just falls off the bag as I pull itaway from the magnet!.  Pop that back in, seal the top and it goes away clean for next time!

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